The staff, sporting twisted headbands on their close-cropped heads, serve yakitori with passion, keeping the skewers coming until the customer says ‘stop’. The chef uses whole chickens, so you can sample even rare cuts to your heart’s content. Of special note is the use of Kishu binchotan charcoal, grilled close to a roaring flame. Skewers are brushed with dashi stock, soy sauce and oil to wreathe them in fragrance. For best results, make your preferences known when you walk in.