There is no exact right way to experience Omar and Cybille St. Aude-Tate’s darling restaurant on North Broad. You could post up at the big bar or hold court on a large communal table or ease into the couches. In this airy, industrial space, you have choices, just as you do with their wonderful, Afro-centric prix fixe. Hush puppies come crowned with country ham and paired with smoked bacon aioli. You’ve never seen a potato salad like this one or had fried fish with crème fraîche and chive-dill sauce. How about wagyu beef cheek and oxtail tamales? Course after course, find refinement and imagination, careful calibration and attractive presentation. Service is equally warm and attentive, and the whole thing comes together like a charm.