It is impressive enough that Julia Momosé has built a worldclass cocktail bar featuring a dazzling collection of Japanese spirits. Servers and bartenders, both dressed in sharp black uniforms, are also so effortlessly warm and cheerful that you want to linger here for hours on end. Now, similar levels of intentionality and sophistication extend to the kitchen. A nicely pitched tasting menu highlights Japanese flavors and ingredients. Butter cabbage seared to a nice golden-brown, dressed with a ramp miso sauce and topped with katsuobushi makes an impression before entrees like yaki zakana, or brined and grilled Arctic char with a shio koji buerre blanc. Drink pairings with and without spirits elevate an experience that is confidently fine-tuned.