There are elements of reverence and seriousness to dining here, which is an asset for anyone seeking authentic Korean food. The warm servers all wear traditional garments to heighten the classic feel, while also donning earpieces in the upscale modern setting. The wait may seem long, but the food is worth it.

The menu, too, can seem extensive with familiar classics from the barbecue lineup, but these are then elevated by the kitchen’s distinct care and skill. The sheer variety of banchan is a feat here. This is also the perfect place for large groups on the hunt for superbly tender meat to grill on the spot. Galbee junullk is a standout, presenting short ribs prepared with the house’s own “secret” soy sauce, then seared before your eyes with onions and mushrooms.