Chef Isai Cuevas, who earned a reputation selling his excellent tamales at farmer's markets across the city, now has a cheerful, neighborhood brick-and-mortar. Named after a Zapotec princess of yore in a nod to his roots, he lets masa take center stage while showcasing his exemplary command of Oaxacan flavors. The tamales, of course, are a highlight, but you won’t be let down by well-crafted antojitos, like taquitos or sopes, either. The kitchen team's care and attention to detail are apparent in every dish, but a deep, complex mole negro makes a plate of enchiladas (featuring handmade tortillas, naturally) particularly memorable.
Thirst-quenching, house-made agua fresca makes an ideal accompaniment to the savory and earthy fare.