Sichuan Impression

Long hailed as one of the top tables in the area, this Sichuan stalwart is settling into its new home just two miles away from its previous address in Alhambra. All of the usual hits are still in play—tea-smoked duck, big mouth ginger frog, mapo tofu—and the kitchen is still armed with its usual scarlet-red numbing oils and fiery, chopped chilis. One recent highlight was a cauldron of fish and rattan pepper boiled in a thrillingly complex broth rippling with numbing, spicy tones. A private room will serve large parties particularly well. All to say, the airy space, with its big windows and bright lights, is a welcome change that has not come at the expense of the cooking. The restaurant has additional locations in Tustin and West Los Angeles.