MICHELIN Guide Taiwan 2024 has just been unveiled, and MINIMAL has been promoted from Bib Gourmand to one MICHELIN Star, making it the world’s first ice cream establishment to receive this prestigious recognition.
MINIMAL stands out as more than just a dessert or ice cream shop. Focusing on ice and ice cream, the restaurant skillfully layers flavors and textures through temperature variations and creative combinations, using unique local ingredients from Taiwan. Chef Arwin Wan, formerly the pastry chef at Taichung's one-MICHELIN-Starred restaurant Sur-, channeled his deep passion for ice cream into founding MINIMAL.
We spoke with the MICHELIN inspectors, who shared their exclusive dining experience at MINIMAL and revealed what captivated them.
“This place caught our eye from the day it opened. We had seen some of their creations, but because of its unique concept—something rarely found in Asia, or even globally—we hadn’t had the chance to fully experience their set menu until a very hot day.”
Arrival
With minimal foot traffic, it might initially seem like a boutique tea house. It’s hard to inspect what kind of business they operate from the entrance, what we have to muster the courage to step inside! “One of our inspectors even shared that at the beginning he wasn’t entirely sure whether he had gone to the right place?”
"The second-floor dining area is cozy despite its simplicity. The high ceilings reveal the original red brick tiles from the old house, and sunlight streams through the window onto the table where I was seated. The cutlery is finely crafted, and the design of the menu conveys a sense of careful selection and attention to detail."
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The Meal
"We can really feel the personal touch of the young team behind the scenes. They are good at storytelling and beautifully delivering their culinary philosophy through the menu."
Don’t mistake MINIMAL for a traditional ice cream shop—it's much more than you can imagine. The tasting menu features a range of ice textures, from sorbet to nitro-style ice, offering intriguing textures and delicate flavors.
“It was a sunny and hot afternoon, and I was really craving something refreshing. The seasonality and locavore philosophy are evident on the summer menu—yuzu blossom, magnolia flower, red-fleshed plum, and even regionally grown ingredients are featured. So different and unique”
– 40℃ Yuzu∕ Moroheiya
“That was a lollipop-shaped ice treat. With the first bite, I was instantly transported back to my childhood. The texture wasn't like a typical lollipop; it reminded me of how I used to compress candy floss into a smaller size to prolong the moment it melted in my mouth. The texture was exactly the same—slightly compact, airy, and slowly melting—allowing the flavors of yuzu pear and the elegant astringency of moroheiya to gradually emerge. It's a treat whose beauty we truly appreciate as we grow up!”
– 196℃ Red Flesh Plum∕ Angelica Keiskei ∕ Walnut
“Nitrogen isn’t new to us—we’re quite used to it, to be honest. However, this colorful and eye-catching dish still impressed me at first sight. What surprised me was that the chef didn’t just play with temperature but also with the shape of the ice to layer the textures. Three items were presented in various shapes of ice at extremely low temperatures. It didn’t feel icy at all; instead, it was more like biting into crisp, hard cookies. It took much longer than the previous dish to fully savor, with the flavors—fruity acidity, nuttiness, creamy notes, and delicate sweetness—gradually unfolding. It's a very intriguing and sophisticated experience.”
– 12℃ Osmanthus∕ Rum∕ Longan
"This might be the richest and most complex dish on the menu. The creamy smoothness of the gelato brought out the flavors of fragrant osmanthus and aromatic rum. It was finished with a freshly baked brioche, crispy shards, and a base of crunchy bread, offering a seemingly simple yet richly textured and flavorful experience. Fascinating."Conclusion
“What impresses us is how each dish features three elements that aren’t overtly showcased but are subtly and smoothly blended to reveal their nuanced flavors."
"We were quite impressed when they were awarded a Bib Gourmand. Since then, we've noticed that they’ve continued to improve their techniques, refinements, and menu structure. The meticulous flavours, delicacy, and mature, skillful techniques all impressed us and reached a higher level, warranting a MICHELIN star."
"Fine desserts are à la mode! People are obsessed with delicate sweets, whether desserts or ice cream. They're willing to spend hours experiencing what they love, as long as it's good. And MINIMAL does it well. We boldly decided to award One Star—why not?"
Tips from Inspectors
1. "The restaurant offers two seating times: 13:00 or 16:00. The first seating is the ideal choice! Here’s a tip: Have brunch with your friends beforehand, meet up at MINIMAL, and then take a walk around The Shenji New Village. You’ll need it, as the 7-course ice cream tasting menu will still leave you feeling full. "
2. "Foreigner-friendly: No English menu but the staffs are happy to introduce dishes in English."
3. “Go for add-on sorbet or gelato to enrich your ice-cream experiences.”
4. “Tea-based Non-alcoholic drinks are highly recommended.”
5. “Stay open-minded and ready to embark on a fascinating ice cream journey with endless possibilities.”
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Hero image: ©MINIMAL
