There's no doubt about it: chef Laurent Gasnier, whose CV speaks volumes (stints at Le Bristol, George V and with the Troisgros), knows how to choose good, mature ingredients, both vegetables and fish. He transforms them into generous dishes, impeccably cooked and seasoned, such as the courgette ball, organic Brousse cheese and basil pistou, or indeed the sea bass, coconut, young broad beans and a butter sauce. In summer, you'll want to sit out on the charming flower-decked terrace in the quiet courtyard. The restaurant is located in the pretty village of Chevreuse – all the more reason to make the trip.