Born in the Haut-Alpes region in France, Fabrice Vulin was raised on a diet of the freshest local produce, instilling in him a passion for high-quality ingredients that endures to this day. His career has taken him through the finest dining rooms of Paris, Geneva, Valence, Marrakesh and the French Riviera before planting him as a beacon of French gastronomy in Asia. At two-Michelin-starred The Tasting Room, chef Fabrice Vulin crafts a classic yet contemporary take on French fine-dining.
He opened the show at the MICHELIN Guide Hong Kong Macau 2019 Gala Dinner with his starter of Poached Gillardeau Oyster No. 3, Shellfish Tartare, Sea Water Jelly, Ginger Cream And Lemon Confit From Menton. Taking inspiration from the sea, the chef has created a dish that encapsulates the ocean on a plate.
What was the inspiration behind the dish?
The concept is that in a few small spoons, you have all the different textures and flavours of the sea.
What was the inspiration behind the dish?
The concept is that in a few small spoons, you have all the different textures and flavours of the sea.
What goes into this dish?
On the bottom of the oyster shell we have a tartare of cooked shellfish, a mix of mussels, razor clams, vernis and cockles, and these are kept together with some puree of lemon zest. The poached oyster sits on top, and then we have sea water jelly and caviar. All the flavours from the sea are represented.
When you first see this dish, it looks very simple, but in fact, there’s so much more to it than what you first see. There are a lot of components to the dish and it is time consuming to put it all together. The difficulty is in showing something that looks so easy and effortless.
The theme of this year’s MICHELIN Guide Hong Kong Macau Gala Dinner is Metamorphosis. What does that mean to you?
I think the metamorphosis of a chef happens every day. There is no one particular turning point, because every day, every year, you are trying to improve and do better than the day before. My metamorphosis has been a gradual shift from when I was young and first starting out, being influenced by chefs I have worked with — I’m evolving every day. When you create a dish, there is an element of metamorphosis, from your initial concept to the finished product. With this dish, the metamorphosis is taking different things from the sea, things we love, and recreating them into a dish that can be enjoyed by our guests.
I think the metamorphosis of a chef happens every day. There is no one particular turning point, because every day, every year, you are trying to improve and do better than the day before. My metamorphosis has been a gradual shift from when I was young and first starting out, being influenced by chefs I have worked with — I’m evolving every day. When you create a dish, there is an element of metamorphosis, from your initial concept to the finished product. With this dish, the metamorphosis is taking different things from the sea, things we love, and recreating them into a dish that can be enjoyed by our guests.
