Barely a year after opening, Hung’s Delicacies at Causeway Bay was awarded a Bib Gourmand in the MICHELIN Guide Hong Kong & Macau 2025. For Chef-owner Lai Wai Hung, it’s a career high — again.
“This wasn’t something I planned,” says Lai , aged 70. “Sometimes in life, things just push you forward whether you expect it or not.”
Lai is no stranger to acclaim. The original Hung’s Delicacies in North Point built a loyal following with its traditional Chiu Chow-style marinated dishes, earning One MICHELIN Star. Fifteen years later, his Causeway Bay location is continuing the legacy.
The signature marinated goose is made with hefty Shantou Lion-Head goose, known for its deep flavor and meaty texture. It’s simmered in Chiu Chow master stock for 90 minutes before each slice is meticulously trimmed of veins, sinew and fat. Then, each piece is hand-dipped in a fragrant scallion-infused broth.
“People always ask why the goose tastes so smooth,” says Lai with a grin. “That’s the secret.”
Other returning favorites include mustard chicken tendons (right image ©Mandy Li), first boiled with ginger and wine, then braised in Cantonese-style master stock (made with Sichuan peppercorns, cinnamon, star anise, cardamom, bay leaf, clove, tangerine peel, rose liqueur and huadiao wine, used for braising ingredients like chicken tendons and duck tongues, while the Chiu Chow-style stock for marinated goose shares the same base but adds galangal, onions and coriander) and finally tossed in a zingy mustard sauce.
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The braised assorted vegetables with red fermented bean curd features tofu skin, mushrooms, black fungus and lily buds steeped in house-made fermented red bean curd sauce. Only at the very end are tofu puffs added — preserving their light, airy texture.
The road to Hung’s Delicacies
Lai’s culinary journey hasn’t always been smooth — but it’s one paved with resilience, reinvention and remarkable highs.
He entered the kitchen at just 16 years old, starting as an apprentice at the iconic Yung Kee. Over time, he climbed the ranks to oversee a dozen restaurants at Hong Kong’s airport, enjoying a high-paying, prestigious role. But in 2003, during the height of the SARS outbreak, Lai made a bold move: he quit. The stress had become too much, and he decided to start over — this time, with a restaurant of his own in North Point. Hung’s Delicacies was born.
“I chose marinated dishes because no one else nearby was doing them,” Lai recalls. “I also thought it would be easy. I was wrong.” (Left image: Lai personally tends to the master stock at his Causeway Bay shop every day. ©Mandy Li)
With little hands-on experience in making master stock, Lai initially hired a head chef to lead the kitchen. But the flavors missed the mark, and the dining room stayed empty. When suggestions for improvement were ignored, Lai stepped in himself.
“I studied every herb and spice to understand which ones overpowered the natural taste of the meat,” he explains. With advice from friends and a great deal of trial and error, the food slowly reached the standard he envisioned.
Then came a turning point: a well-known food critic dined at Hung’s Delicacies and wrote about the experience. The buzz was immediate. Business picked up, word spread and soon people were queuing outside — sometimes as early as 4 p.m.
In time, Lai developed more signature dishes, like the now-famous mustard chicken tendons.
“I wanted something that stood out,” he says. “I came across chicken tendons in Kowloon City and thought, no one else is doing this — it’s unique.” He bought some, experimented and created what would become one of his most talked-about items.
Since day one, Lai has been a hands-on chef — personally slicing goose every day. But that commitment has come with a price.
“I developed a condition where even in my sleep, my hand stays clenched like I’m still holding a knife,” he says. “I have to consciously force my fingers open to relieve the tension.”
His philosophy is simple: there’s no reward without effort. And that dedication paid off. In 2010, Hung’s Delicacies received a MICHELIN Star — and held it for five consecutive years.
“That first star was the first big high point of my life,” Lai reflects. “Even the nearby fruit stalls and newspaper vendors told me people kept asking where the MICHELIN marinated goose place was.”
A rollercoaster ride — and a second high point
At the height of Hung’s Delicacies’ popularity, the buzz was so intense that Lai had to borrow refrigerator space from a neighboring shop just to store all his ingredients.
But with growing demand came logistical challenges such as staffing difficulties, and Lai closed the original North Point shop in 2014.
The second location in Kwun Tong wasn’t easy, either. Lai had plans to build a prep kitchen nearby, but rental complications halted the project. When the kitchen finally opened in 2019, the COVID-19 pandemic struck not long after. At one point, stress caused Lai to lose over 30 lbs in a single month. To keep operations afloat, he sold property and dipped into his personal savings — a humbling chapter in a life full of peaks and valleys.
In the following years, Hung’s Delicacies shuttered both its Hung To Road and Dorsett Hotel locations in 2022 and 2024, respectively.
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A new chapter in Causeway Bay
Just when Lai was considering stepping back from the industry, a friend invited him to view a potential space in Causeway Bay. Lai was instantly drawn in by the layout — especially a drinks bar that he envisioned transforming into a sleek open kitchen for showcasing his signature marinated dishes.
So, once again, he returned to the game.
In addition to his beloved classics, Lai introduced fresh creations — like the now-popular black garlic charcoal tofu (right image© Mandy Li), made by wrapping soft tofu in charcoal and seasoning powders, then deep-frying to crispy exterior and creamy interior.
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Beyond the food, Lai has always placed emphasis on hospitality. Even back in the North Point days, he found small ways to delight customers — offering eggs to young diners or chatting with regulars. At the new Causeway Bay spot, that spirit continues. While the last order is technically at 9:30 p.m., Lai is happy to accommodate latecomers. He ensures enough front-of-house staff are available so that service is smooth, friendly and responsive — creating a virtuous cycle where happy diners tip more, and staff, in turn, serve with even more heart.
The Bib Gourmand recognition — and what’s coming next
Lai’s face lit up with quiet pride when Hung’s Delicacies earned a Bib Gourmand in The MICHELIN Guide for Hong Kong & Macau 2025 — a remarkable achievement for a restaurant that had been open less than a year.
“When the news came out, a few longtime customers sent over flowers,” he said, smiling. “Some even joked, ‘Why not a Star?’ But I truly don’t mind. To be recognized this soon — it’s already amazing.”
Even after decades in the industry, Lai shows no signs of slowing down. A new location at Hong Kong International Airport has opened in July 2025
Now in his seventies, retirement isn’t on his radar.
“I’ve always found joy in the work,” he says. “And after all these years, it’s the customers — their smiles, their loyalty — that keep me going. That’s the greatest reward.”
