The chef was a fishmonger before pursuing the path of the sushi artisan. Every sushi piece he forms is an expression of gratitude to the fishermen and wholesalers. The meal begins with hand-delivered negitoromaki (roll sushi of tuna and green onions). Pairing rolls of monkfish liver and kanpyo (dried gourd) with sweet, thick kijoshu is inspired by how foie gras matches so well with botrytised wine. The omakase set menu is wonderfully satisfying with its generous selection of items. Add to all this the three requisites of good service: awareness, attentiveness and smiles. No wonder reservations are hard to come by.