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“Everything begins with tuna and ends with tuna.” Hideki Nakajima learned this old-school Tokyo way of doing things from a sushi shop that was heir to skills dating from the Edo period. The nigiri starts with toro, is followed by seafood from Tokyo Bay, with tekkamaki (tuna roll) at the end. The fan-shaped nigiri is a technique seared into his memory from watching his mentor’s handiwork. Vinegared toppings and nitsume accommodate modern tastes while advancing the evolution of this tradition.