The shop opened its doors a quarter century ago and is as popular as ever. Father and son tend the charcoal brazier, taking the tiller together. Two breeds of free-range chicken, each suited for different cuts, are grilled over kishu-binchotan charcoal. Skewers are served one at a time on antique dishes, combining respect for yakitori with the gracious service for which Ayamuya is renowned. Omakase meals don’t include any veggie skewers, so diners can appreciate the full flavour of the chicken.