This astonishing restaurant is completely unremarkable from the street... what a surprise, then, beyond the stainless steel-clad tunnel, to enter this attractive room with a sleek decor that blends metal, Montpellier stone, tiles and granite. Chef Guillaume Leclère is committed to what he dubs his "cuisine d'arrivage": he serves a single set menu that changes regularly in line with the ultra-fresh ingredients available (Mediterranean fish, veal from the Pyrenees etc), all sourced via short supply chains. Only the list of ingredients is revealed to diners. The chef's precise, pared-back creations have plenty of personality and panache, cases in point being his dish with asparagus, horseradish and mint, or the meagre and rosemary.