Amid the leafy, brownstone-lined Mount Morris Park Historic District, Barawine is an inviting dining room overseen by Fabrice Warin. This eye-catching space entices Lenox Avenue passersby to step in for a perch at the bar area’s communal table or a seat in the quieter back dining room. Whitewashed walls attractively double as wine storage throughout.
The crowd-pleasing menu defies classification and embraces many influences. Quinoa salad with tofu and seaweed will please the disciplined, while ravioli filled with a flavorful blend of ricotta, spinach, and garlic in a beurre blanc sauce is positively decadent. Braised lamb shank in a glossy mushroom red wine sauce over creamy polenta is another hit.