A ‘sushi kappo’ opened by the ryotei Kikunoi. Sushi is Japanese food, after all, so inventive steps are taken to incorporate sushi into the proceedings, interspersing nigiri into the flow of appetisers, sashimi and soup. Treatment of ingredients is unique: for example, Japanese tiger prawn is char-grilled and scorched in the shell, and conger eel is seasoned with black seven-spices and buds of the pepper tree. Another thing you won’t find elsewhere is the ability to choose from serving ware and sake decanters crafted by none other than legendary ceramicist and epicure Rosanjin.