Once a traditional café in the 11th arrondissement, this place now aspires to the status of a huge country cottage (the meaning of "dacha"). Many original features – mouldings, chandeliers and smoked mirrors – have been preserved and are now joined by bunches of dried grasses and ears of wheat on tables made from wooden pallets. The dishes are concocted by chef Maksym Zorin (a graduate of the Ducasse stable, most notably), who taps into French culinary heritage with tweaks for optimal elegance and flavour: delicious and delicate pâté en croûte; slightly smoked pink veal with an airy parsnip purée; Tonka bean chocolate and hazelnuts for dessert – on point and unpretentious. Table d'hôte upstairs.