Olde Marckt, which has been run by the Stoverink family since 1998, has been given a stylish makeover. Albert, the father, ensures seamless service, personally guiding diners through the tempting wine list, which features French, German and Austrian labels. Son Bram has returned to Aalten to take charge of the kitchen, reverently preserving the classics of the house, such as game, eel and asparagus dishes. There are, however, also more contemporary creations, such as raw scallop carpaccio with marinated fennel, crispy nori, avocado cream and a silky dashi vinaigrette. The menu is extensive, with simpler options at lunchtime, but the culinary depth is never compromised.