This restaurant with a low-key, hushed atmosphere has the feel of a tastefully furnished private home, with an open fire lit in winter and a cool, welcoming outdoor dining space for the warmer months. The restaurant has built up a well-deserved reputation for its fish dishes, although the menu here is equally divided between fish and meat. Options such as anolini in brodo (filled pasta in broth) pay tribute to the region’s traditions, while most of the dishes served here are highly creative. Originally English, the owner’s wife runs the front of house with skill and a warm, friendly manner. The wine cellar is home to more than 700 of the best Italian and international wines, with a curious emphasis on labels from cooler climes.