More than just a name, it's an ethos at this ambitious RiNo dining room from Chef Duncan Holmes where staff warmly welcome you. Once inside this Scandi-cool space, diners pull up a chair at the 18-seat counter facing the kitchen where a focused team is hard at work. Diners choose between vegetarian or omnivore menu options, but in either case vegetables are a highlight, as in a porridge of Calrose rice with black truffle, pickled hedgehog mushroom, and crispy yuba. Seared quail breast with a confit leg is spot on, especially when paired with date purée and a quail reduction enhanced with orange and foie gras. Desserts are especially captivating, like a memorable chocolate dessert with a lacy cocoa nib tuile, pomegranate jam, and a quenelle of subtle-yet-spectacular nutmeg and salsify ice cream.