Château d'Origny

In the same village as the famous Troisgros, this 16C château with its ochre-coloured façade cuts a fine figure, as does its elegant restaurant, where terracotta floor tiles surround the stone fireplace. Gifted chef Julien Laval, after stints working with the likes of Serge Vieira in Chaudes Aigues and finishing as a finalist in the French dessert championships, is thriving here. You just need to taste his smoked eel cream crisp, multicoloured radishes and turnips with horseradish to tell: his ceps, French toast with sweet chestnuts and pumpkin flan; Bresse chicken, waffle oozing with Montbrison cheese or his Basque cake with quince from the orchard and hibiscus flower jelly.