In the setting of a former luxury brasserie, Tabata and Ludovic Mey (whose previous restaurant was Les Apothicaires) have opened this place with an atmosphere reminiscent of a carriage on the Orient Express: dark wood panelling, landscape frescoes and burgundy banquettes reminiscent of the 1930s. The couple's creative and technical cuisine gives vegetable ingredients the red carpet treatment; they don't take the easy route, as illustrated by the remarkable salad starter. The veal sweetbreads cooked in hazelnut butter and lightly smoked, with Camus artichoke, vin jaune and walnuts may be more classically inspired but it demonstrates the same culinary precision. Brasserie Roseaux next door offers an alternative dining option.