At the unveiling of the MICHELIN Guide Kyoto and Osaka 2025, Chef Yoshichika Masuda of Masuda took center stage — not for a new star, but for something deeper: his unwavering dedication to shaping the next generation of culinary talent.
The head chef of one-MICHELIN-star restaurant Masuda was honored with the MICHELIN Mentor Chef Award, a rare recognition reserved for those who lead not just with skill, but with heart.
This prestigious award celebrates chefs whose influence extends beyond the plate —those who inspire, educate, and elevate the future of the restaurant industry through mentorship and example.
The Path to Japanese Cuisine
Masuda, the son of a fish trader, was born in the village of Kawakami in Nara Prefecture, into a family that had traded in dry goods and food delivery since his grandparents’ time.
Inspired by the TV drama series Zenryaku Ofukuro Sama (Dear Mother), which featured a sushi chef as the protagonist, Masuda took his first step into the culinary world with an apprenticeship at Kitcho, a well-known ryotei – or Japanese fine-dining restaurant. After enduring grueling training, he was appointed head chef at a ryotei in Osaka’s Minami district, at the tender age of 28.
From Kitchen to Classroom
While working as a chef, Masuda taught at two culinary schools. At the first, his students were primarily women, including housewives and those preparing for married life. They devoted themselves to cooking with great effort and took joy in the delicious results.
“Making people like them happy — that’s what makes it all worthwhile as a chef,” Masuda says. “I want to use my skills for their sake.”
The second school was geared towards students who wanted to make their mark in the food service industry. “I was amazed to witness people who had never even held a chef’s knife pick up some cooking skills in just three months and then start their own restaurant,” he says.
After working in the culinary field for a little over a decade, Masuda was inspired by his students to open a restaurant of his own.
The closure of the restaurant he was working in was the final push he needed. Drawing on his experience at the culinary school, Masuda began to consider a location and menu that would feel welcoming to female guests.
The Masuda Hassun: An Awe-inspiring Presentation
The term hassun derives from the Japanese measurement "sun," with eight sun — about 24 centimeters — defining the dimensions of the square tray on which this elegant course is traditionally served during a formal tea ceremony. More than just a reference to size, hassun represents a moment of seasonal storytelling through food, typically featuring a curated mix of ingredients from both the sea and the mountains.While conventionally served as an individual course, the experience takes on a unique communal form at Masuda. There, a single, artfully arranged hassun is presented for the entire table to share, its contents portioned thoughtfully among the guests. It’s a gesture that transforms a solitary tradition into a shared celebration of seasonality and craftsmanship.
Masuda conceived this innovation around the time square-screen TVs were being replaced with wide-screen TVs in Japan. Captivated by the impressive impact of the new screen dimensions, Masuda began plating the dish in a horizontal layout, to make a similar impression on his diners. The chef favoured the simple styles of Shigaraki, Oribe, and Bizen tableware; sometimes he had the pottery fired by artists, often commissioning artists to create bespoke pottery.
When he began serving dishes on generously sized rectangular plates, Masuda recalls, diners responded with delight.
Today, hassun has become a signature of Masuda. Several of his apprentices have since opened their own restaurants and present hassun in a style inherited from their mentor. When they do, Masuda says, guests often recognize the style and ask: “Did you train at Masuda in Shinsaibashi?”
The First Step is Faithful Imitation
In the Osaka dialect, a master craftsman is called o-yassan, while apprentices are called o-jiki. For Masuda, who rose to second-in-command and then head chef at an early age, o-yassan were the senior figures he admired during his training days. He imitated their every move, determined to become like them as quickly as possible.“How to hold a knife, the etiquette for eating with chopsticks and drinking from a teacup, even how to wring out a dishcloth — I copied it all,” Masuda recalls.
The seniors he aspired to emulate not only worked quickly but also anticipated tasks and moved efficiently into preparation. Naturally, the dishes they plated were also beautiful.
Masuda’s own experience taught him that the quickest path to mastery was to imitate, and he instills this same philosophy in his apprentices.
At his restaurant, Masuda sometimes jokes with his staff, saying: “All you ever do is imitate me.” But beneath the humor, their earnest efforts to mirror his work is the highest flattery.
The Customer is the Judge
Hanging in front of the counter is a piece of calligraphy bearing the proverb ‘Hakuraku no Ikko’ or ‘A glance from the discerning eye’. In this context, ‘Hakuraku’ refers to one who recognizes talent in others, while ‘ikko’ refers to the manifestation of talent. Masuda holds that the true measure of a chef’s talent lies in the eyes of the customer.“We must continue to grow, so that we are worthy of being recognized by our customers,” he says.
Recently, Masuda was thrilled by a guest’s compliment: “The proprietor has a wonderful personality, and the staff are cheerful, sincere, and efficient — they work quickly while still finding time for friendly conversation.”
The comment was a powerful reminder for Masuda of how a leader's character can set the tone for an entire restaurant. After all, it’s not only the food but also the atmosphere that makes a dining experience truly memorable.
A Word to the Next Generation of Chefs
Now, Masuda is committed to nurturing the next generation of young chefs and encourages the next wave of talent to be patient as they hone their craft.“Nothing is accomplished in a single bound,” he says, “The skills you need can only be acquired through years of steady apprenticeship.
“Becoming a head chef or running your own restaurant will inevitably come with difficult moments. What enables you to overcome those challenges is the experience you’ve built up patiently over time.
“Expect to spend about ten years in training. There will be times when you feel lost or uncertain. Treasure those moments, because that’s where real growth happens.”
What is Next for Yoshichika Masuda?
With this philosophy at heart, Masuda reflects on his future — not just as a chef, but as a mentor and creator dedicated to leaving a lasting legacy in the culinary world.“I will continue my approach to creating new dishes, just as I always have,” he says. “I also want to keep training apprentices and shaping a restaurant they can truly be proud to have trained in and nurturing as many such chefs as I can. That’s my dream, and I believe it’s that conviction that led to the honor I received today.”
Top Image：Ⓒ Masuda
