Hanoian cuisine stands out as Vietnam’s vibrant culinary capital, offering a treasure trove of flavours and textures that entice food enthusiasts from all corners of the globe.
The city is renowned for its vibrant street food culture that thrives on small, family-owned businesses, where recipes are often passed down through generations. The streets of the Old Quarter are lined with vendors selling an array of dishes, from bun cha to banh mi and pho.
Characterised by a delicate balance of flavours, Hanoian cuisine is distinct from the rest of the country. Southern dishes tend to be sweeter and spicier. Hanoian dishes rely on subtle use of sweet, salty, sour, and umami tastes. The aim is to let the natural flavours of the ingredients shine through.
Local recipes emphasise the use of fresh, locally sourced ingredients. Fresh herbs like coriander, basil, mint, and perilla play a crucial role in enhancing flavours and providing a refreshing contrast in many dishes. Meanwhile, the abundance of freshwater sources in the region also contributes to the use of fish, prawns, and various aquatic creatures and vegetables in the cuisine.
While pho, the iconic Vietnamese noodle soup, often steals the spotlight, Hanoi boasts a diverse array of dishes that deserve equal attention. To explore the rich tapestry of Hanoian flavours, beyond the noodle soup, we spoke to Hanoian chef, Sam Tram, co-owner and head chef of one MICHELIN Star Gia in Hanoi.
Tran trained in the kitchens of Melbourne, Australia for 10 years but proudly promotes the culinary delights of her homeland. She has produced a guide of her own top tips for eateries around the city, which she likes to share with her customers.
Here are the must-try dishes of Hanoi that she believes you shouldn’t miss.
Grilled pork with noodles
Bun cha, a Vietnamese meatball dish is quintessentially Hanoian. The mouth-watering combination of grilled pork patties, vermicelli noodles, fresh herbs, and a tangy dipping sauce is a staple of the capital’s street food. Once visiting a bun cha eatery, the smoky aroma of grilled meat fills the air. The tender pork patties are beautifully enhanced with a sweet and savoury fish sauce and paired with the fresh herbs and noodles.Typically, the dipping sauce is served at room temperature. However, when preparing the pork, the patty is immediately immersed in the dipping sauce for marination. This delightful concoction is then savoured alongside fresh vegetables and noodles, creating a harmonious symphony of flavours that beautifully encapsulates the essence of the city.
Try here:
Stir-fried rice
Chef Tran shares her love for good stir-fried rice or com dao, in Hanoi. She looks for a hearty dish consisting of fragrant, stir-fried rice served with various accompaniments, such as deep-fried quail. The array of side dishes typically includes grilled pork, marinated vegetables, fried tofu, and a delightful selection of dipping sauces.Tran’s favourite option is stir-fried pig brains with eggs that she describes as “amazing”. The whole egg is fried in a wok, with plenty of oil, and cooked until fluffy.
Grilled fish with noodles
Cha ca, which means fried fish, originates from a street within Hanoi's old quarter that shares the same name. It consists of turmeric and dill, which is another Hanoi specialty that will tantalise your taste buds. This sizzling meal, filled with tender fish marinated in turmeric, is packed with fresh dill, peanuts, and a side of rice noodles. It’s a delightful burst of fresh flavours and textures. Guests can then decide for themselves the balance of the ingredients for every mouthful.Try here:
Rice paper rolls
Banh cuon is a traditional dish that showcases Hanoi's expertise in rice paper rolls. At Bánh Cuốn Bà Xuân, a MICHELIN-recommended spot, two dedicated sisters share the shifts in the kitchen, each contributing their unique touch to this culinary experience. In the morning, the first sister prepares a thicker rice paper that imparts a distinct texture to the rolls. When her sibling takes over in the afternoon, diners can expect a transition to a far more delicate, paper-thin rice paper.These translucent rolls are served with a variety of subtle fillings. For those seeking a lighter option, the minced pork and wood ear mushrooms are accompanied by a side of fresh herbs and a dipping sauce, resulting in a delectable bite. The pork meatloaf and sausage option is a good choice for breakfast or a snack. Diners can customise their taste experience with fresh herbs, chilli, lime, and garlic.
Try here:
Clear soup with crab
The last dish the MICHELIN Guide Young Chef Award winner of 2023 recommended is far more intense in flavour than the other Hanoian dishes. Bun rieu is a unique, rich broth made from crab. The broth is typically made by pounding freshwater crabs, including the shells, into a fine paste. This paste is then cooked with various seasonings, such as rich tomatoes, shrimp paste, and sometimes tofu or pork. The result is a delicious, slightly tangy, and savoury soup typically served with round rice vermicelli noodles.Hanoian bun rieu reflects the local ingredients and culinary traditions of the capital city. The use of freshwater crabs, the inclusion of tofu and pork, and the prominent role of tomatoes are key aspects that make the Hanoian variation unique.
Egg coffee
We couldn’t wrap up our conversation about the city’s exciting culinary scene without discussing the famous egg coffee. Hanoi's rich history is reflected in its cuisine and the French colonial legacy is seen in items like baguettes (banh mi) and coffee.Amidst the rise of coffee culture in the late 1960s, one Hanoian visionary changed the way the Vietnamese would enjoy their coffee. Tran explained that Mr. Nguyen was a barista at the Metropole Hotel. It was a time when coffee was still making its mark in Vietnam.
At that time, coffee was considered a luxury. Only the wealthy could afford the milk that usually accompanied it. But Mr. Nguyen wanted coffee to be accessible to everyone. As eggs were abundant, he decided to use them to create a rich and creamy coffee concoction that could be enjoyed by all.
This unique blend, whipped into a frothy, luscious topping was an instant hit. The egg coffee became a sensation. Buoyed by its success, Mr. Nguyen opened a café in Hanoi, where he served his legendary new recipe. Today, the tradition of savouring a cup of velvety egg coffee lives on, a testament to one man's vision and the rich tapestry of Vietnamese culture.
