09 February 2026
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If you’re planning a special occasion, then there are few better London restaurants than Row on 5. Having just earned its second MICHELIN Star, this collaboration between Jason Atherton and Chef Spencer Metzger is now firmly among the capital’s culinary elite. And during my dinner, the finely calibrated cooking was joined by effortless luxury and elegant service. Located on Savile Row, London’s most famous bespoke suit-making street, you could say that Row on 5 itself is a bit like the very best suits: easy on the eye, expertly tailored to the client and produced with the highest quality materials available.
The First Act
As another Inspector and I arrived at Row on 5, the serene luxuriousness of the experience started almost immediately. After heading downstairs from the street to the basement entrance, we were greeted not just by a smiling team member but by the sound of birdsong. We were then asked if we would like our coats dry cleaned – which I must admit was the first time I had been asked the question!Our experience began in the downstairs sitting room, warmed by a roaring fire and furnished with substantial velvet armchairs and sofas. Within the sitting room was a mini preparation station where we could see the snacks being crafted. We were presented with a huge tome of a wine list, one of the best in London. We engaged with the excellent sommelier Roxane Dupuy, who is the worthy winner of the MICHELIN Sommelier Award 2026. Her knowledge of the entire wine selection was superb and she recommended some choices that went perfectly with the tasting menu.
A Change of Scene
After enjoying a pre-dinner drink and the immaculate snacks – a tartlet of bluefin tuna otoro from Newquay was a highlight, with exceptional clarity of flavour – we were shown up to the dining room. It was furnished with interior design that doesn’t make a scene, but lets you know that every detail is as high-quality as can be.A large open kitchen was the focus, brought to life by a brigade of chefs marshalled by Spencer Metzger. There were seats up at the kitchen counter but we were at a table, still with a great view of the action. Throughout the evening, a plethora of both chefs and front-of-house staff were on hand whenever we needed them. They all had a natural charm and made their work look easy, despite the service being perfectly choreographed.
The Main Event
The trappings at Row on 5 are undeniably special, but the core of its success is the cooking. Metzger and Atherton have crafted a menu that seamlessly blends a classical European base with Japanese influences. During our dinner, a koji-marinated scallop served with a sake-based beurre blanc was the perfect example.Each dish arrived with an attractive yet often minimalist look, with the complexity of the cooking becoming clear as we ate. There was a huge sum of work going into every detail, but what you saw on the plate was clean and uncluttered. The tasting menu was full of high points, with a few dishes in particular having stayed with me.
Inverness Langoustine in Two Parts
With the first part served as the last snack in the sitting room and the second served upstairs, using a common ingredient cleverly added an extra dimension to the transition between rooms. The snack consisted of a wonderful custard made using the roasted heads and carapaces of the langoustines. This was topped with a jelly of tosazu vinegar, edible flowers and sudachi lime – all working to balance and elevate the intense shellfish flavour.The second serving showcased three pieces of perfectly cooked langoustine, topped with delicate flower-shaped potato crisps, sitting on a crystal-clear Japanese tomato jelly with incredible purity. A duck egg sabayon lent a complementing umami note and a creamy texture. Finger lime bound in a curry leaf oil finished the dish.
Singapore Native Lobster
Cooked to perfection over binchotan charcoal, the lobster tail had a fresh flavour and meaty texture. Highlighting another of Metzger’s Asian inspirations, the sauce was inspired by Singapore chilli crab and had a subtlety which combined well with miso beurre blanc foam and a touch of sansho pepper. Japanese milk bread was ideal for mopping up the remainder of the sauce.
Sea Bass ‘Au Poivre’
A fine example of the blend between French classics and Japanese inspirations, the au poivre element here came from a yuzu kosho pepper espuma. Showcasing the chefs’ great understanding of flavours, it was paired with a mussel fumet reduction, enriched with caviar, and together the two sauces helped to elevate an already delicious piece of fish. The sea bass was precisely cooked so that it had a softly flaking texture and its freshness was evident in its flavour.Sika Deer
The deer had been aged, deepening its flavour, and the loin had a caramelised exterior and a supremely tender inner. A little Jerusalem artichoke purée and al dente cabbage accompanied the meat, but it was once again the sublime sauce that impressed us most. It was a glossy, deep reduction that balanced the meatiness of the deer with red fruits and beetroot.A second serving of the deer consisted of flavourful braised haunch, dipped in a taro root dough and deep-fried. It was extraordinarily light and was served with a delicate condiment made with aged vinegar and onion.
Inspector’s Tips
- In this well-heeled part of town, there are almost too many top-quality hotels to choose from. To help you narrow it down, consider one of Row on 5’s nearest neighbours: Brown’s Hotel for quintessential Britishness; Ham Yard Hotel for the Firmdale group’s signature bright colours; or Hotel Café Royal for history and a prime West End location.
- Ask the sommelier for advice on navigating the enormous wine list, as they will cater to your tastes and the day’s menu. Particular highlights to look out for include a superb selection from the Jura and, if you’re celebrating, the choice of grower champagnes is second-to-none.
- The dining room includes both counter seats and tables. Ask for a seat at the counter if you love watching the chefs up-close.
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Hero Image: A fish dish from new Two-MICHELIN-Star restaurant Row on 5 in London. © John Carey/Row on 5
