In our third and final look at the inspectors’ favourites, we now reveal some of the dishes they enjoyed in the new Two and Three MICHELIN Stars, which were unveiled in the Great Britain and Ireland MICHELIN Guide 2021.
A. WONG - Peking DuckA dish from the ‘Taste of China’ menu. Served over wonderfully aromatic smoked cherry wood; the soft, beautifully wrapped Peking duck pancakes were filled with slivers of moist and succulent roasted duck – the delicious, intense and long-lasting flavour was enhanced with foie gras, while the caviar added a little luxury and an extra dimension. All the elements of the dish were expertly brought together to create a truly sublime dish.
Da Terra - Scallop, fennel, Granny SmithThe slices of silky and delicious stunning Isle of Mull scallop were intertwined with thin slices of apple adding a different texture and some acidity. The clear fennel liquor with a little oil added some richness and a hint of fattiness, while the masterstroke that really elevated the dish was the marigold granite which worked exceptionally well. The second element of the dish was lovely scallop roe. This was a complex, balanced and expertly executed dish.
Story - Langoustine, black garlic & spirulina
Plump, juicy and utterly delicious langoustine tail was served lightly grilled on top of stones, having been brushed with a little beurre noisette. Set beside it was a small bowl of aerated black garlic emulsion that had a little kick but not one that was in danger of overpowering the beautiful tail. An object lesson on how to focus a dish on a stunning ingredient and how to bring out its natural flavour.
CORE by Clare Smyth - 'Cheese and onion' alliums, aged cheddar and onion brothA dish that has been developed and improved. The aroma immediately hits you and carries on in the eating. The shells of sweet, juicy onion were interleaved with creamy cheese sauce, while the crispy onion rings added wonderful flavour and texture. A rich, buttery onion brioche bun on the side was faultless and brought an extra dimension. The dish felt personal and a little playful but there was nothing frivolous about its execution - it takes skill and invention to elevate humble ingredients in this way.
Hélène Darroze at The Connaught - Wild seabass, champignon, walnut, Lardo di Colonnata, Douglas pine
Buttery, pure-tasting and delicious wild seabass – its cooking had been perfectly judged. Raw mushrooms added an earthiness and the creamy Lardo extra depth and weight. The well-made and perfectly balanced walnut purée and powder lent an extra layer of texture and nuttiness, while the tea, with its subtle edge of pine, was deep in flavour and brought the whole thing together. An original, memorable and exquisite dish.