When Ahmet Dede’s eponymous restaurant was awarded its second Michelin Star in 2023, the one thing he wanted everyone to know about was the depth, variety and originality of Turkish cuisine. Anybody who has visited his restaurant in the Irish village of Baltimore will no doubt have got this message. His cooking is best described as a marriage of Turkey and Ireland, with Ahmet consistently championing Turkish flavours while showing great reverence for Irish produce. Here, a Michelin Inspector reveals all on this unique dining experience.
Arrival
Located in a rural spot in Ireland’s south-westernmost corner, dede is the kind of place you’d call a ‘destination restaurant’. The award of Two Michelin Stars and Chef Ahmet Dede’s reputation for deliciously inventive cooking attract discerning diners from around Ireland and beyond, who will happily make the trip to the coast for this rather special experience – one which delighted our Michelin Inspector.“As this was my first time visiting the restaurant, I took the opportunity to take a stroll round the harbour before our dinner, soaking up the atmosphere of this charming coastal village. When my fellow Inspector and I arrived in the restaurant itself, co-owner Maria Archer welcomed us with the kind of genuine warmth that instantly lets you know you’ll be in for an enjoyable evening.”
Baltimore Bay, where dede is located (© aluxum/iStock)
“We were shown straight to the table, which happened to have a great view of the pass, allowing me to experience as much of the kitchen’s buzz as possible. Diners are spread across two small rooms, ensuring the restaurant retains an intimate feel. The décor is simple but refined, with lovely contemporary paintings of the sea reminding you of your location on the edge of the Atlantic.”
The Team
Restaurants are nothing without their teams, and at dede its success hinges on both Ahmet’s brigade in the kitchen and Maria’s service team. Together, they run the restaurant with skill and a smile, as our Inspector found out.“From the moment we arrived, Maria and her team looked after us wonderfully. As each dish arrived, it was brought out by one of the chefs, with many courses coming in multiple parts – so needing multiple chefs! They explained their dishes and the ingredients well and Chef Ahmet came to speak to every table himself, showing great pride in his restaurant. What pleased me so much was the great dynamic between the kitchen and front of house teams; you could sense how well they all worked together and it felt like we were eating in a restaurant run by one big family.”
Langoustine, Tomato, Basil, Yellow Gazpacho, Isot (left)/Laminated Pogca, Isot Butter, Tomato & Black Olive Paste (right) (© dede/ayla hunt)
The Cooking
The main thing to know about Ahmet Dede’s cooking is the enormous role his native Turkey plays in the flavours. Turkish spices, techniques and specific dishes are refined and reinvented for his multi-course tasting menu – but crucially Irish produce underpins it all. It is this marriage of the two countries that propels the restaurant forward. Ahmet’s command over all his influences and ingredients is something our Inspector found especially impressive.“I loved how predominant the Turkish influence was on the cooking here. While the traditional dishes have been refined for this kind of dining experience, the Turkish elements haven’t been too softened or simplified for non-Turkish diners – everything feels authentic. What makes each dish so delicious is the incredibly skilful way in which Ahmet uses his Turkish spices. Each flavour is precisely measured so as to enhance but not mask the core produce, which is of exceptional quality. To still be able to taste the natural flavours of the main ingredient, while also picking up layer upon layer of other flavours is a superb skill.”
Lahmacun Adana Kebab, Tomato, Red Pepper and Îçli Köfte, Buffalo Milk, Yayla Corbasi (© dede/ayla hunt)
The Dishes Tasted
A key feature of the tasting menu at dede is its multi-dish approach. Several courses come in two or more parts, which are individually delicious yet combine to make an even greater whole. Here are a few of the servings that particularly impressed our Inspector.Lahmacun Adana Kebab, Tomato, Red Pepper / Îçli Köfte, Buffalo Milk, Yayla Corbasi
“This was a prime example of the ‘two dishes in one’ approach that Ahmet Dede often takes. The first was a playful take on classic Turkish street food: a well-made flatbread covered with a lip-smacking mixture of lamb and onion, then topped with beautifully seasoned minced lamb. It was a prime example of to elevate a widely known dish with quality ingredients and precise spicing. The second dish again featured minced lamb, but this time accompanied by a complex milk soup, its sourness balanced by a drizzle of pomegranate molasses.”Langoustine, Tomato, Basil, Yellow Gazpacho, Isot / Laminated Pogca, Isot Butter, Tomato & Black Olive Paste
“On one plate, a deliciously sweet langoustine tartare was topped with exceptionally intense, fragrant tomatoes and a breathtaking yellow tomato gazpacho, something I have been thinking about ever since. On the side was one beautiful langoustine cooked to perfection and coated with a subtle amount of wholly complementary isot pepper. Accompanying the langoustines was a beautifully buttery pogca bread, which came with isot-inflected butter and an umami bomb of black olive and tomato paste.”
Langoustine, Tomato, Basil, Yellow Gazpacho, Isot (© dede/ayla hunt)
Hazelnut Muhallebi, Mandarin, Vanilla, Olive Oil
“Turkey is known for its hazelnuts, so it was great to get some fine examples with this traditional Turkish dessert. The richness of the silky muhallebi was offset perfectly by a stand-out mandarin sorbet. As the meal drew to a close, this was yet another example of Ahmet Dede’s outstanding command of flavour and his brilliant understanding of balance.”Conclusion
“There are few restaurants that so distinctly marry two different cultures and cuisines as dede. When you dine here, the team talk with such pride about their local suppliers and have clearly embraced West Cork with all their heart. Yet the commitment to raising the profile of authentic Turkish cooking is never far away. It is a match few people may have thought of, but one made in culinary heaven.”Love all things Michelin?
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Hero Image: © dede/ayla hunt
