There comes a point when a pared-down style jumps from being easy-to-miss and becomes hard-to-forget. When a lack of any FOH staff means the service is playfully all-hands-on-deck. When the explicit rap music reflects the chefs’ ethos, going well beyond laissez-faire to the point of “we don’t give a damn.” You probably won’t either once you taste the food. Not every dish works, but when it does, the result is sublime.
Making a mark on this menu is the basil julep accompanied by a light cloud of basil-scented air and compressed mozzarella with caviar; as well as hiramasa atop tapioca dotted with egg yolk sauce. Your finale may feature a quirky spin on Fruit Loops by way of an oat-and-coriander cookie with coconut gel and finger lime.