Come in season and walk along a slightly winding path on the grounds of Lomita winery to arrive at Lunario, nestled inside a greenhouse-like building. It's modern, with a Brooklyn-chic design, and the open kitchen has a few counter seats for those who like to be in the thick of it.
Chef Sheyla Alvarado presides over a four- or six-course tasting menu with a vegetarian option (both change every new moon cycle). Dishes are bold and surprising. A simple salad soars with a fried dandelion blossom, orange supreme, and jocoque; poached sea bass with a hoja santa and coffee crust atop a slightly sweet corn sauce is loaded with character. A tamal tucked with smoked oyster mushrooms and parsnip atop a round of brown poblano mole is impressive.