Find our Inspection team's official review of the Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok here. Below, one writer shares her personal experience exploring the timeless elegance and one-of-a-kind service that make this one of the most unique hotels in the world.
If there's one hotel a Thai person, who grew up in the era when Mariah Carey’s "One Sweet Day" was topping the charts, might have dreamed of visiting, it’s the Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok. In the early 90s, when I looked up to world icons of pop for my taste in glamour, my seniors seemed to have their own icon of elegance: this glittering institution on the banks of the river.
Often hailed as Thailand’s first five-star hotel, I remember adults in my life who would proudly recount their youth working at the “Oriental,” as it was originally named in 1876.
It's still the pinnacle of Thai hospitality. On a recent visit, I learn from staff that after King Chulalongkorn’s 1891 inspection, the hotel hosted its first royal guest, Crown Prince Nicholas of Russia. Since then, the establishment has continued its tradition of royal hospitality, attracting dignitaries and celebrities eager to be seen holding a cocktail in the grand open lobby or walking down the iconic stairs to tea at the Author’s Lounge.
Having visited Bangkok’s Grande Dame many times, this was my very first stay. The journey from downtown to the enchanting riverside in Old Town was hectic, but it only made the welcome from entrance staff in traditional Thai uniforms feel more warm and inviting. As always, I felt safe and welcome the moment I arrived.
The first step into the hotel never fails to astonish me. This is no minimalist white-on-beige affair – it’s a classic, with bold statements striving to make an impression. Sunlight pours through vast floor-to-ceiling windows, highlighting a decor that’s polished yet vibrant, with brass light fixtures playing against the subtle elegance of the rich earth tones in the carpets and cushions. And then there are the flowers, arranged by two renowned Thai florists, constantly refreshed throughout the year, bringing life to every corner. To overlook them would be to miss the heart of this unique space – and it never gets old.
The charming receptionist had my room ready early, arranged a spa appointment to fit my schedule, and offered a late Sunday checkout. My Deluxe Premier Room in the River Wing, with its king-sized bed, exceeded expectations. The 43 sqm space, featuring a plush dim Tiffany blue sofa, wooden floors, and nature-inspired rugs, blends Thai accents with a resort feel. Decorated with teak, Thai silk, and prints inspired by the Chao Phraya River, it feels like living inside a perfectly crafted vintage bag.
Once settled in, a staff member welcomes me with a chilled lemongrass drink while highlighting the room's features. I love the Bluetooth speaker, large TV, and yoga mat. The compact shower is offset by a cosy bathtub and efficient Japanese toilette.
Watching guests swim in the glittering blue with a gold touch pool from my room, I couldn’t resist taking the elevator down for a dip. I’m warmly greeted and pampered beyond measure. In the afternoon, I am hiding from the sun with Lionel Barber’s "Lunch with the FT" and a cold Gin Rickey in hand when the rain clouds cast their shade – just like my ex. Unlike that ex, the staff have perfect timing. As the sun shifts, they adjust my umbrella as if they’ve been reading my mind.
After refreshing, I head to one of my beloved sunset spots in Bangkok: the hotel’s own restaurant, The Verandah, for a sundowner. It’s a refreshing change from the overpriced riverside bars that dot this area, offering decent cocktails, tasty bites, and impeccable service. Here, the only thing you need to prepare for dinner is a good appetite.
The Verandah’s just one of many restaurants in the Mandarin Oriental. The hotel means business, with its 12 dining outlets, including three MICHELIN-listed restaurants: the legendary French culinary institution Le Normandie (one MICHELIN Star), kaiseki gem Kinu by Takagi, and Baan Phraya, serving traditional Thai dishes in a 120-year-old house — all featured in the MICHELIN Guide 2024.
Following dinner, I head to The Bamboo Bar, my favourite jazz haven and another spot on the premises. Since 1953, this Bangkok icon — Thailand’s first jazz venue — has drawn international fans while keeping its sultry 1950s vibe. Call me old-fashioned, but it’s still a sacred space for jazz lovers. A mention of my stay gets me a prime spot to enjoy “Fly Me to the Moon” with a perfectly drafted Negroni. More than just a bar, it stirs up the perfect mix of timeless elegance and top-tier hospitality —shaking up history, culture, and comfort with classic cocktails reinvented by an award-winning bartender team.
After a restful night and a bubble bath that left me as relaxed as a cat in a sunbeam, I savour breakfast by the river. The selection may be limited, but my specially requested French omelette is spot-on, and even my forever-blown-away napkins promptly retrieved. Here, quality clearly triumphs over quantity.
For a Bangkokian, the renowned Thai smile can fade into the background, but at the Mandarin Oriental, it shines through — warm, genuine, and ever-present on the staff's faces for the past 150 years. As I sip my morning coffee, I can’t help but feel a surge of pride as a Thai. It’s not about offering more but perfecting every detail and making guests feel at home. This is the essence of true Thai hospitality, second to none. Beyond flawless service, there’s a soul here — a beating heart that makes this place truly an icon of Thailand.
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Hero image: Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok — Bangkok, Thailand
