Make no mistake: the city is a treasure trove for vibrant bars and cool clubs to relax and socialise. Nevertheless, when we say Hong Kong stays awake till late, it applies to an even wider range of venues and activities for individuals with different interests, and it would be a miss to spend a week in town without getting to know more of them. We have assembled a list of quintessential late-night experiences beloved by Hongkongers below.
1. Bask in the Glow
The forest of skyscrapers in Hong Kong’s city centre constitutes a spectacular skyline that is best enjoyed at the waterfront promenades on both sides of the Victoria Harbour. The Big Bus Night Tour departs at 7pm and captures the moments when the buildings light up.Yet the world-famous night view is even more mesmerising deeper in the night. After a dinner or movie, take a ride on the Star Ferry (closing at 11:30pm daily) or the Hong Kong Observation Wheel (closing at 11pm from Friday to Sunday) to appreciate the vistas from various vantage points.
Another cornerstone of the city’s nighttime brilliance is the neon signs that narrate Hong Kong’s economic growth and rise of material life during the last century. The combination of Chinese characters and catchy graphics contribute to an urban aesthetics quite unlike anywhere else. Once seen on every street, their existence is threatened by modern technological devices and high maintenance costs, which is even more reason to pick up your camera and take beautiful shots of them while possible. You will find the highest concentration of neon signs in the districts of Wan Chai and Yau Tsim Mong.
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2. Eat to Your Heart’s Content
Long working hours and abundant nighttime entertainment events are the driving forces behind the vibrant late night supper (known as siu yeh in Cantonese) scene in Hong Kong. Variety is king: be it sweet or savoury, dainty or unfussy, small bites or lavish spreads, you can always find something that fits your mood, appetite and the social occasion.Open-air food stalls, or dai pai dong, was Hongkongers’ top siu yeh destination during the mid-20th century. Bib Gourmand Glorious Cuisine (open till 2am) was one of them, and it carries on the legacy to feed night owls with a wide array of flavourful, unpretentious Cantonese dishes, including fried dough stuffed with cuttlefish paste and boiled sea whelk with chilli and liquor.
Hong Kong-style tong sui (sweet soups) are meant to nourish the body after a full meal, and Kai Kai (Jordan) (open till 1am) does more than that for the fatigued minds out in the wee hours. Made with old-school methods, the Bib Gourmand joint’s signature items such as black sesame sweet soup and Ningbo-style glutinous rice balls are as soul-soothing as they are delicious.
Going yumcha is a morning routine for most Hongkongers, but the city’s favourite culinary ritual becomes a more jovial affair after dark: sleepy eyes no more, diners have a bigger appetite for har gow and spring rolls as well as gossips and banters after a long day. Causeway Bay’s Tai Woo (open till 2am) is a longstanding restaurant not only known for its seafood delicacies, but also a selection of traditional dim sums that are on the menu from 9pm.
3. Lose Yourself in Jazz Shows
A new generation of jazz musicians and aficionados have ushered in another wave of evolution for the genre in Hong Kong. More diverse venues and performances mean both seasoned listeners and newcomers are well taken care of.
A good jazz bar conjures up an atmosphere distinct from your favourite spots to grab a pint. DarkSide at MICHELIN-recommended hotel Rosewood Hong Kong, for instance, reimagines what an old-school jazz club would look like in the 2020s through its glamorous lounge area. Regulars are hooked on its vivacious live shows that go on until just before midnight, or after that during Fridays and Saturdays.
For a more intimate and immersive listening session, CODA (open till 11:30pm) introduces Japan’s jazz kissa concept – a cafe that plays select vinyl records on quality sound systems – to Sai Ying Pun, allowing lovers of the genre to focus on the music with a cup of coffee at hand. It also hosts weekly live shows featuring local and international talents.
“The younger audience prefers enjoying jazz without the social conventions around it,” CODA’s co-owner Andrew Wong added. “Places like Visage One redefine the experience. It’s a hair salon on weekdays but during Saturday, it sets up jazz shows you can see up-close – not to mention the music is great.”
4. Discover the Old Hong Kong That Still Persists
Yau Ma Tei, a neighbourhood that maintains an aura of timelessness, is home to Temple Street, one of Hong Kong’s the most distinctive landmarks. A tightly packed marketplace selling affordable goods and traditional snacks operates there and gets ever busier from sunset to when the shops close at 11pm. The saturation of sights and sounds alone is worth the trip whether you are ready to drain your wallet.
But do not think about leaving just yet. The century-old Yau Ma Tei Wholesale Fruit Market gets in on the action at 10pm. The hundreds of vendors there cater to retail customers during the daytime and only sell fruits in boxes at night. Still, the lower wholesale prices draw in healthy crowds of individuals, some in groups to split the purchases, every night. The market not only represents a less-exposed slice of local life, its immense range of fruit cultivars also makes for an eye-opening experience.
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5. Stay Active
Hongkongers do not slow down after dark. Many take advantage of the time after studies and work to join sports classes or contest their peers at neighbourhood basketball courts or football pitches. Late-night running is a great way for travellers to get to know the metropolis’ streets after the crowd subsides.Louise Li and Brad Fong, captains of the local running community Harbour Runners are partial towards – as the name of their group suggests – routes by the water. In addition to the iconic path from the Tsim Sha Tsui Clock Tower to Hung Hom Ferry Pier, the pair is eager to plan their next runs around Kai Tak Sports Park, a new venue opened in March this year.
“After exploring the sports ground and stadium, you can run along the Kai Tak promenade, past the Sky Garden all the way to the cruise terminal. It’s the perfect time to check out the area with so much going on there!” They said.
Those in search of a more laidback time indoors can sign up for a temporary membership of the South China Athletic Association online to access its billiard tables and golf simulation centre (open till 2am and 1am respectively). Elsewhere, Thunderbowl (open till 1am) in Whampoa is fitted with 24 regular bowling lanes, two of them lit by neon light to add swag to the players’ moves.
6. Be in One with Nature
Despite being exposed to a dazzling agglomeration of artificial lights in their everyday lives, Hongkongers are never far away from natural sites for stargazing or sunrise watching. The Astropark in Sai Kung, for instance, has a telescopic observation area to give visitors a clear view of the night sky.
Some like to incorporate that into an overnight adventure. Cabin camping at sites like the Saiyuen Camping Adventure Park in Cheung Chau afford stargazers maximum comfort. Alternatively, setting up tents on Shek O Beach, Tap Mun Island or Ma On Shan’s Ngong Ping Plateau (not to confuse with Ngong Ping on Lantau Island) lets campers feast their eyes on Hong Kong’s most scenic locations while they are caught by the first rays of the rising sun.
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