Day One: The Old Town – Medieval Squares and Royal Palaces
Morning
In a city surrounded by water, there's no better place to start your Stockholm city break than at its edge. Walk across the Vasabron Bridge to the island of Stadsholmen, one of three islands that form Stockholm’s Old Town, Gamla Stan. The Old Town dates from the 13th century when the city was founded as a hub for the iron trade. Its strategic location made it quick to grow, soon developing trade links with the Hanseatic port cities of Gdansk (or Danzig as it was then known), Lubeck and Hamburg.
Before delving into its beauty, pause for breakfast at Café Schweizer. Established in 1920, this warm and friendly café is a wonderful cross between a stylish Nordic coffee shop and the lavish coffeehouses of Vienna. Their fresh pastries are perfect for a light start to the day, while the breakfast menu features scrambled eggs, smoked salmon and traditional Swedish Kalles (roe spread), accompanied by a glass of incredibly pulpy freshly squeezed orange juice.
Suitably fed for the day ahead, wind your way through Gamla Stan’s Medieval passageways pausing first at Storkyrkan. Colloquially, though incorrectly, referred to as Stockholm Cathedral, Storkyrkan is the oldest church in the city. Completed in 1306, it was originally a Catholic Church, until the Church of Sweden broke away during the Reformation in the 16th century. Now the seat of the Bishop of Stockholm, the interior is elaborately furnished. The piece de resistance, a 15th-century statue of Saint George and the Dragon, is the work of Gothic artist Bernt Notke.
Leaving Storkyrkan, walk to the rear of the church and you’ll find yourself in Stortorget, Gamla Stan’s main square. Dating back to the Middle Ages, the serene, cobbled square is flanked on every side by historic buildings.
Its main attraction, one of the highlights of any Stockholm city break, is the Stock Exchange Building. Completed in 1778, the building served as home to the stock exchange until 1998. Since 2001, somewhat aptly, it has housed the Nobel Prize Museum, as it is from the Stock Exchange Building that the recipient for the Nobel Prize for Literature has been announced since 1914.
Open daily, except Mondays, the museum pays homage to the life-changing achievements of Nobel laureates since the prize’s inception in 1895. A new permanent exhibit entitled 'These Things Changed The World' shows the magnitude of their successes and how they shaped the modern world.
Lunch
A pleasant stroll along Vasterlanggatan, Gamla Stan’s most picturesque street which follows the course of the now-ruined city walls, will lead you out of the Old Town and across Slussbron to Sodermalm.
For lunch, take up a prime spot by the window of 13th floor Freyja., which serves a modern, uncomplicated take on Swedish classics. The weekly specials are the highlight of their inexpensive lunch menu, with herring, beef tartare, Scandinavian sausage and a vegetarian dumplings always on the menu. Before you leave, head up to the roof terrace for a craft beer or a cocktail while taking in 360° city views.
Afternoon
Retrace your steps across the Slussbron and upon reaching Gamla Stan, this time stick to the quiet, cobbled waterside path which hugs the eastern coast of Stadsholmen. The walk will be a leisurely one, with frequent stops to admire the moored tall ships, but it won’t take long to reach The Royal Palace.
The Royal Palace is the official residence of the Swedish monarch, although incumbent King Carl XVI Gustaf and Queen Silvia reside at their private residenc, Drottningholm Palace, on the quiet island of Lovon. Construction, which took some 63 years, was completed in 1760, with the interior designed in grand Rococo style. The best way to see the palace is to join a guided tour through the state rooms, though the Royal Apartments and The Treasury are accessible independently too.
Leaving Gamla Stan behind, your final stop this afternoon is a short walk across Strombron. Stockholm’s National Museum is Sweden’s leading art museum. Established in 1866, its collection dates back as far as the Middle Ages. With over 700,000 items on display, exhibits range from drawings and classic works from the likes of Rembrandt and Ludwig Refinfer to sculptures and modern art. There are frequently changing exhibitions with current highlights including 'The Romantic Eye', a collection of 19th century Romantic pieces, and 'The Timeline', which spans six centuries of art and design from the museum’s collection.
Dinner & Evening
This evening, head to one of Stockholm’s most lavish restaurants, where elegantly designed, elaborate chandeliers and floor-to-ceiling windows provide the perfect balance of light against original oak panelled walls. Set within the Royal Swedish Opera, One Michelin-Starred Operakallaren, serves classic French dishes with a modern twist via a decadent monthly-changing tasting menu. The wine pairings are exceptional, with the 'Grand Pairing' being in a league of its own. (You'll need to book ahead, as soon as reservations open up on the first of the month.)
For a relaxing nightcap after a long, relaxing dinner, head inland to the Stockholm Under Stjarnorna, Michelin-recommended Hotel At Six’s vibrant rooftop bar. The unpretentious drinks menu focused on craft cocktails is the perfect accompaniment to the twinkling city lights. During the winter months, meanwhile, make for the trendy Cocktail Bar At Six is a lively, inviting space serving classic cocktails with quirky twists, alongside an impressive wine list.
Hotel At Six’s relaxed and stylish approach doesn’t stop at the bars. Their 343 spacious rooms and suites sport a modern design with dark tones, and luxurious amenities make it a an appealing place to stay during your time in Stockholm. The location couldn’t be more convenient too.
Day Two: Pop Culture and Island Hopping
Morning
Kick off your second day with a hearty breakfast at The Cadier Bar in the Michelin-recommended Grand Hotel, whose interior is a far cry from the simplistic modern designs often associated with the Nordic countries. Opulent and true to its name, the Grand overlooks Gamla Stan and the Royal Palace. The Cadier’s breakfast menu features fresh, flaky pasties, eggs aplenty and an exquisite champagne list.
Start with a visit to the Toy Museum. The place to rediscover your inner child, the exhibits will take you on a nostalgic journey down memory lane. With hundreds of dolls, cars, comic books and action figures on display, you’ll soon be reminded of childhood favourites you’d all but forgotten.
Swapping the old for the new, continue inland passing the whitewashed Eric Ericsonhallen, Skeppsholmen’s old church, to the Moderna Museum. Home to the largest collection of contemporary and modern art in Sweden, the museum features the work of Swedish artists alongside the big names from around the world. Masterpieces by Picasso and Dali are the highlights, but former Director Pontus Hulten’s 700-strong personal collection is more than worthy of a mention.
Lunch and Afternoon
If you fancy staying on the island, then the appropriately named Hotel Skeppsholmen is the place to be. Built in 1699, it's now well over 300 years old, yet it has a surprisingly clean, modern style thanks to a cleverly executed restoration. Hungry visitors have the perfect excuse to go and check out its guest spaces thanks to its restaurant, Långa Raden, which offers a typically Swedish menu that sees meatballs and seafood given due prominence.
Conveniently adjacent to the hotel is the Skeppsholmen Ferry Terminal. Catch line 82 for the short crossing to Djurgården. Ferries run daily, departing every 20 minutes.
The pilgrimage to Djurgården is one taken by over 350,000 music fans every year. ABBA The Museum is, frankly, unmissable on any visit to Stockholm. The museum tells the story of Bjorn, Benny, Frida and Agnetha, from their childhoods to their fame on the world stage. With everything from original instruments and iconic outfits to handwritten letters and private photographs, ABBA The Museum is the ultimate experience for fans of the band.
You could easily spend the entire afternoon paying homage to ABBA. If you do manage to make it out with time to spare, then head back towards the harbour to visit The Viking Museum. 9th century longships, artefacts recovered from burial tombs and original regalia afford an invaluable insight into the Viking way of life which made the Nordic countries a European superpower.
Dinner and Evening
Returning by ferry to the city centre, take the short walk from the Slussen terminal through Gamla Stan to Frantzen. Sweden’s only Three Michelin Star restaurant, it's super-stylish, with the air of a private members’ club, and dinner here is certainly an experience to be cherished. Every meal starts with an aperitif while Chef Bjorn and his team introduce you to the ingredients which make up the day's set menu. Each course is cooked in front of your eyes and, with just 23 seats, dining here is personal and intimate. Both alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverage pairings are available.
While away your final evening in Stockholm with a tipple at Le Hibou, the Bank Hotel’s Parisian-style rooftop bar. Occupying a 1910-built former bank, it proudly, and justifiably, holds the title of World City Hotel of the Year. Elegant and refined, Le Hibou’s outstanding views are matched only by the variety of handcrafted cocktails on offer.
Don’t leave without pausing at Sophie’s, the Bank’s champagne bar, for one final glass. Trendy and playful, it's a lively and happening spot. Should you not wish to leave at all, the Bank’s 111 rooms are a wonderful blend of heritage and trend-setting Stockholm design.
Address Book
ABBA The Museum: Djurgårdsvägen 68, 115 21 Stockholm
Café Schweizer: Västerlånggatan 9, 111 29 Stockholm
Moderna Museum: Exercisplan 4, 111 49 Stockholm
National Museum: Södra Blasieholmshamnen 2, 111 48 Stockholm
Nobel Prize Museum: Stortorget 2, 103 16 Stockholm
Skeppsholmen Ferry Terminal: 111 49 Stockholm
Slussen Ferry Terminal: 111 30 Stockholm
Stortorget: Stortorget, 111 29 Stockholm
Storkyrkan: Trångsund 1, 111 29 Stockholm
The Royal Palace: Kungliga Slottet, 107 70 Stockholm
The Viking Museum: Djurgårdsvägen 48, Djurgårdsstrand 15, 115 21 Stockholm
Hero Image: Stortorget Square in Gamla Stan (© Martin Wahlborg/iStock)
