“I would be in the kitchen every day after school. I started learning to peel prawns and clean clams, before making chawanmushi and finally, cutting fish,” he recalls. “Even after 26 years of making sushi, I’m still learning and refining my technique. [To me], continual learning is essential for a chef.”
One of the hardest things for him to learn was being able to slice the fish right. Masa shares that at the start, he didn’t know how to use the sushi knife properly, and had to observe his father at work to grasp the art of wielding the sharp tool. Even then, he practised every day, taking care to mimic the fine strokes his dad would apply to get the technique down right.
“Usually when we slice the fish, we can’t put too much pressure or the meat will [tear] and the water from the fish will come out,” says Masa.
After graduating from San Diego State University, Ishibashi trained at several sushi restaurants. His career then took him back to Tokyo, Japan where he helmed the kitchen as executive chef of the iconic Ginza Sushi Ichi.
In 2016, Ishibashi came to Singapore to head Shoukouwa sushi restaurant, leading it to two Michelin stars in a mere four months after opening. We sit down with him to ask him more.
The first time our team earned a star... was in 2011 and 2012 when Ginza Sushi Ichi made it into the Michelin Guide Tokyo. The first time my team and I earned two Michelin stars was in 2016 with Shoukouwa sushi restaurant in Singapore.
How did you celebrate when Shoukouwa received two Michelin stars?
The first thing I did when I realised we had won a star was to share the achievement with my wonderful team and supportive suppliers. I believe in teamwork and I definitely wouldn’t have gotten this far without my team’s support and hard work. I also thanked my network of suppliers for their support as they play a big role in ensuring that I serve only the best produce to my customers.
The influence the Michelin Guide has had on my career is enormous, especially outside of Japan. For me, a chef is a chef regardless of recognition and achievement, and I continue to do what I do best as a respected sushi chef in Japan. Outside of Japan, award-winning chefs are appreciated for their hard work and people are more interested to learn about Japanese food and culture.
My advice for young chefs aiming for Michelin stars is...to keep a positive attitude and always believe in yourself.