Over the last quarter of a century few London streets have seen more restaurants come and go than Charlotte Street, but one constant over that period has been David Moore’s Pied à Terre. One of the reasons for its longevity has been its subtle reinventions: nothing ever too grandiose – just a little freshening up with some new art or clever lighting to keep the place looking relevant and vibrant. The room is undeniably intimate and the professional, thoughtful service goes a long way in ensuring the atmosphere remains serene and welcoming.

Of course, the restaurant’s success is also due to the consistent standard of the cooking. The current chef continues to produce dishes based on classical French techniques but he also puts in a few nods to his own Greek background and this has given the cooking a bolder, more muscular edge than has been seen here for a while.