Over the last quarter of a century, few London streets have seen more restaurants come and go than Charlotte Street, but one constant over that period has been David Moore’s Pied à Terre. One of the reasons for its longevity has been its subtle reinventions: nothing ever too grandiose – just a little freshening up with a new colour scheme or some clever lighting to keep the place looking relevant and vibrant.

Of course, the restaurant’s success is also due to its cooking, and there’s been reinvigoration here, too, with the introduction of a vegan menu. Dishes are based on classical French techniques with occasional nods to the chef’s Greek background, which give the cooking a bold, muscular edge. The room is undeniably intimate and the professional, thoughtful service goes a long way in ensuring the atmosphere remains serene and welcoming.