With its glitzy, slightly ostentatious interior, this certainly isn’t your average Chinese restaurant. A table near the back beside the tropical fish tank is a great place to sit, with the basement more suited to a romantic date – and service is engaging and highly attentive. The wine list includes some interesting Chinese options and is well worth a look.

All areas of China are represented on the wide-ranging menus, with an emphasis on the southern Nanyang region. 20% of the dishes are classics, such as the powerfully flavoured 18 hour slow-cooked pork belly; the other 80% are more elaborate, adventurous constructions like spring chicken and Szechuan spicy crumble. Vegetarians are well looked after and desserts are a highlight. Lunch consists of ‘Little plates of loveliness’ – lucky number 8 is about the right amount to share.