Stephen Toman likes to keep things moving at this Scandic-style restaurant, which, with its painted bare brick walls and understated design, wouldn’t feel out of place in Copenhagen. If you’ve time to spare, arrive early for an aperitif in their next door Wine Cave (where they also serve snack boards throughout the day).

Top quality produce guides the constantly evolving menus, which are a mix of set-priced and surprise selections created from a list of around 30 or so of the best seasonal ingredients. Skilfully prepared modern dishes capture the true flavours of these ingredients and Stephen’s passion for vegetables is clear to see. There’s a great balance of different tastes and textures, and cooking has a refined, sophisticated style. Well-matched wines and warm service complete the picture.