On Monday 5th February, The MICHELIN Guide Great Britain & Ireland 2024 was unveiled, with wonderful news for a host of restaurants. We asked some of the Michelin Inspectors to tell us about some of the dishes that made a great impression on them this Guide year. This could be something that told a story, something that showcased an unusual technique or something they just found simply delicious.
Scottish langoustine, burnt apple, sorrel – LYLA, Edinburgh
"LYLA was set up to showcase the best of Scottish seafood and this dish encapsulated that ethos perfectly. The premium langoustine was lightly cooked and provided a naturally sweet flavour, with the crisp pastry outer adding another textural dimension. A rich purée of apple also provided a nice complement to the langoustine. Some of the most enjoyable foods are those you eat with your hands and this was no different – it was hard not to lick my fingers after eating something so simple yet complex, with such harmonious flavours."
Pork collar, smoked butter jus, slow-roasted celeriac, radishes and fresh apricot – The Pony Chew Valley, Chew Magna
"The presence of fresh apricot in this dish is what intrigued me the most about it. It did not disappoint, having been lightly charred on top to help release its natural flavour. This was an ideal accompaniment to the lesser-seen cut of pork collar, which was tender, succulent and rich with flavour. Pieces of sweet roasted celeriac were wrapped in thin, raw slivers for added crunch, then in turn topped with radish and nasturtium leaf. This was a dish full of freshness and flavour."
Aran monkfish, Jerusalem artichoke, East Clare chanterelles – Homestead Cottage, Doolin
"Showing such finesse and restraint, this was an exemplary dish from one of our new One Michelin Star restaurants. The monkfish itself was perfectly cooked, as was the sauté of locally foraged chanterelles. The Jerusalem artichoke was deceptively simple in its presentation but added so much to the dish; a lightly roasted half topped with shavings of raw and pickled pieces. Finishing things off was a delicious, lightly aerated sauce that was subtly flavoured with liver and horseradish, demonstrating real sophistication in the cooking."
Deer fillet steamed on string with a ‘really rather nice’ rowanberry sauce – Dew Drop Inn, Hurley
"This was a wonderful example of classical French cooking. Three thickly cut pieces of deer fillet were cooked in the traditional 'à la ficelle' way, with the meat tied with string and the cooking juices falling into a pot of stock, which is then used to make the sauce. The meat itself was perfectly pink and tender, with a real melting quality to it. The sauce lived up to its name: sticky, glossy and packed with flavour, with the rowanberries adding a welcome piquancy that cut through the richness. Traditional and generous, this was every inch Chef-Owner Simon Bonwick’s signature style."
Burnt Manchester honey tart – Higher Ground, Manchester
"How appropriate that one of my favourite dishes of the year was in Manchester, the host city of this year’s MICHELIN Guide Ceremony. At the lively and popular Higher Ground, a new recipient of a Michelin Bib Gourmand, I enjoyed this dessert that showed the chefs’ confidence in their abilities and their local ingredients. Wonderful Manchester honey provided a fabulous sweetness and fragrance to a rich, smooth topping nestled inside top-quality pastry. It just goes to show that a dish doesn’t have to be complicated to be delicious."
Conference pear tarte Tatin, cultured cream – Kai, Galway
"Traditional desserts are something I always enjoy. My eyes light up whenever I see any of the old favourites – crème caramel, crème brûlée, trifle, sponge puddings. My absolute favourite is the tarte Tatin. This example put a twist on the traditional formula by using seasonal pear instead of apple. The fruit sat inside exemplary puff pastry: flaky, sugary and caramelised around the edges. The runny caramel topping was so glossy I could practically see my reflection, and a scoop of rich cream countered the sweetness perfectly."
