This laid-back restaurant is appointed in the same trendy, glamorous vein as the Royal Snail Hotel in which it is housed. The welcoming, casual vibe provides the perfect foil to sample Carl Gillain’s bistronomic vision. The slate menu features a pageant of unconventional bistro dishes and sensibly priced wines. He might add depth to ravioli of turnip with a stock of roast onion and veal, imparting subtle umami, but then again, he may simply pair a juicy entrecote with a fresh, wonderfully light, silky bearnaise sauce. Most of the dishes are designed to be shared, although you may not always wish to do so…