Its décor is unfussy, but this allows the focus to remain on what’s important at this hotel restaurant: the food. Not forgetting the view, of course, for its position set into a cliff makes for a stunning sea panorama through the floor-to-ceiling windows.

The tasting menu serves as a celebration of top quality produce available locally, including many ingredients – like wild herbs – foraged by the team. Dishes are pure, elegant and confidently delivered; concentrating on just a few main ingredients and treating these with the utmost respect in order to bring out their natural flavours. Start with several snacks, followed by eight courses of sublime, sophisticated cooking. The Guinness and treacle bread alone is worth a return trip.