The thriving market town of Bruton is the ideal setting for this beautiful restaurant – the design of which would likely be approved of by the Hauser and Wirth Gallery just down the road – and, with Merlin having already taken London by storm with Portland and Clipstone, the locals embraced his West Country venture with open arms.
He might come across as quite reserved but here is a confident, forward-thinking chef with a great understanding of all things food-related and a strong, inimitable style. Fresh produce from the locality and his allotment feature in pure, harmonious combinations and dishes have an effortlessly assured, understated elegance. The cocktail list is equally enticing and the ciders and beers are locally sourced too.