Rolo's

Say hello to the Swiss Army knife of restaurants. By day, the front is a bakery and bodega. By nightfall, the room morphs into a spacious cocktail bar (try the sherry-tinged blood orange cobbler). An adjoining space also comes to life as a roaring wood-fire grill bathes the room in flickering amber hues and signals the start of dinner service. Everything sounds good, and is good. Wood-fired polenta bread smeared with sweet pea and mint pesto is a must-order. Other favorites include potato croquettes, fluke ceviche and a charred half chicken with chili relish. Globe lights, handsome wood floors and a friendly, casual cadre of servers add more warmth to an already welcoming space where everyone either is a regular or is about to become one.