Hotels

We’ll spare you the comparisons with Prague and simply say that Krakow combines picturesque good looks with affordability and livability in the manner of the best Eastern European destinations. And Hotel Stary is the kind of hotel you expect to see a bit later in a city’s tourism development — not that we’re complaining. Right in the heart of the old town, this centuries-old apartment house has been given the full boutique-luxury treatment, its grand old rooms converted into fifty-three bedrooms and suites.

The contrast between old and new is striking: modern fixtures mix with antique furniture and period finishes — in one suite a sleek white modern tub stands free in the bedroom, against a backdrop of frescoes and wood-paneled walls. Space is plentiful, and there’s no shortage of atmosphere — contemporary interventions are well-chosen and relatively scarce.

An old cellar, arched brick doorways and all, makes for a fairly inspired setting for the well-equipped fitness center, and the wellness center’s pools form waterways that wind through brickwork tunnels. Add a restaurant, a café and a cocktail bar and you’ve got a self-contained destination hotel, and proof that Krakow’s hospitality scene is ready to progress to another level entirely.