A strong team of chefs, many of whom had previously worked here, were reassembled in 2020 to reenergise the kitchen and this they have achieved because the cooking now shows confidence, freshness and vitality. The star ingredient of each dish is of exemplary quality, whether that’s Scottish scallops or Kentish lamb, and the kitchen cleverly balances modern techniques with recognisable flavours and spicing.

Once you’ve rocked the red carpet on the pavement outside, you’re greeted at the foot of the stairs before being escorted up past the flower-filled pool and busy bar into the cleverly textured restaurant – you won’t even notice the lack of windows. The private dining rooms and large bar lounge make it popular with the corporate market, but this is also somewhere to come for an intimate evening.