Small but mighty, this kitchen under the guidance of Chef Teague Moriarty turns out a seasonal, ingredient-focused menu that consistently pleases with stark, stylized dishes inspired by new Nordic and Japanese cooking. Vegetables are given their proper due, as in a grilled and dried beet bolstered by fermented huckleberry and whipped bone marrow. This team shows its strongest suit in dishes of bold simplicity, where a grill-kissed Maine scallop is brushed with pine syrup and sauced with brown butter and green farro miso. Then, lamb saddle and sweetbread is accompanied by a jus lifted with summer flavors.
Desserts follow the thread of focused seasonality, as in a silken ice cream spun from jasmine rice koji matched with tiny strawberries and poached rhubarb.