Rafa Costa e Silva is at the pinnacle of his prolific culinary career. Having spent ten years outside of Brazil, where he studied and worked alongside some of the international greats—such as the Basque Andoni Luis Aduriz at Mugaritz—the Rio-born chef returned to his native city to open Lasai, his first solo restaurant venture.
In the latest edition of The MICHELIN Guide, the restaurant was awarded Two MICHELIN Stars, becoming the third eatery in Rio to be awarded this distinction—alongside Felipe Bronze’s Oro and Alberto Landgraf's Oteque. Costa e Silva calls it "the culmination of work that we have developed with both patience and dedication over a number of years."
Since opening its doors in 2014, Lasai has become a gastronomic reference point in the “Marvellous City,” showcasing local ingredients rather than more globally esteemed products like truffles and caviar. Eight years later, Costa e Silva took his innovative vision even further, relocating the restaurant just a few meters from its original Botafogo address—but this time to a more intimate space. He reduced the number of covers from 45 to just ten per service, cultivating an experience that feels both exclusive and deeply personal.
A modern dining room with an L-shaped marble counter and dramatic lighting replaced the airy, colonial charm of the original location. Costa e Silva’s dishes—centered around vegetables from his own farms—embody a minimalist philosophy, each plate featuring only a few pristine-quality ingredients. Many are meant to be eaten with your hands. In short, fine dining stripped of excessive formality, infused with Costa e Silva’s signature carioca spirit—laid-back yet refined.
New “Carioca” Cuisine
According to Costa e Silva, Rio’s cuisine has become more casual. “We have spectacular restaurants with a more informal style—places where you can eat in shorts and flip-flops, something that I love in Rio de Janeiro."He also believes Rio’s culinary scene is thriving, driven by standout hotel-based restaurants and a new generation of chefs who are pushing boundaries without compromising on quality. These young chefs are building on the solid foundation established by Brazilian pioneers such as Roland Villard and Roberta Sudbrack.
“Despite this, the best is yet to come, especially with efforts undertaken by the city’s authorities, who have promoted major food- and tourism-focused initiatives, such as last year’s MICHELIN Guide ceremony in Copacabana,” says Costa e Silva. The fine-dining scene in Rio will continue to evolve and gain even greater prominence in the years to come. Until that time, the chef is sharing with MICHELIN where you can eat well in the city today.
The Best Bread at The Slow Bakery
For Costa e Silva, The Slow Bakery is incomparable. “It bakes one of the best loaves I have eaten anywhere in the world. Naturally fermented bread, made with Brazilian flour, with Rafa [Brito Pereira, the owner] at the helm every day.”The highlight is the naturally fermented sourdough bread called Rio Sourdough that, according to the chef, has “a crunchiness on the outside and an elastic texture on the inside.” The brand’s two locations offer freshly baked ciabattas and baguettes, as well as a menu of sandwiches, tartines (such as goat’s cheese and roasted tomatoes), coffee, and more.
The chef also notes that the breakfast at The Slow Bakery is “without equal," including options such as hot cheese with the bakery’s signature bread, semi-cured cheese, and artisanal butter.
Refreshing Sorbets at Vero and Mil Frutas
Vero, a beloved sorveteria in Rio, impresses Costa e Silva with its dedication to authenticity. “Everything they create is made artisanally, without any chemical additives. Their production is small, but the quality is exceptional.” With seasonal flavors that highlight the freshest ingredients, every visit to Vero brings a new surprise. “Right now, it’s lychee season, but soon they’ll introduce something different,” he adds.For another must-visit sorveteria to cool down in Rio's heat, Costa e Silva recommends Mil Frutas. With a history spanning over 35 years, this classic spot offers more than 160 flavors, featuring typical Brazilian fruits like taperebá and biribiri, as well as lesser-known delights.
Read also: 2 Days in Rio de Janeiro
Cozy Vibes at Sud, o Pássaro Verde and Oro
Among the restaurants highlighted by Costa e Silva, two stand out—each with its own distinct charm. Sud, o Pássaro Verde, helmed by chef Roberta Sudbrack, blends comfort and flavor in a space decorated with copper pots, a wood-fired oven, and a warm, inviting atmosphere. “Roberta creates incredible home-style cuisine, enriched by the flavors of the fire. Her stews are outstanding, and the cauliflower soufflé is one of the best things I’ve ever eaten,” says Rafa, a frequent guest at this cozy spot in the Jardim Botânico district.For fine dining, Oro sets the standard in Rio under the direction of chef Felipe Bronze. “For me, Oro is one of the best restaurants in Brazil when it comes to high-end cuisine. Felipe’s cooking is spectacular, and he has continuously refined and elevated his restaurant over the years. He was ahead of his time, and I’d say he’s now at the very top of his game,” Rafa adds.
Toto and Oseille: A Culinary Duo by Chef Thomas Troisgros
Costa e Silva rates Toto, run by chef Thomas Troisgros, as the best place for lunch in Rio. “His dishes, such as the roast prime rib gyoza, are always delicious, and the overall feel is spectacular and fun, in keeping with Thomas’ character,” he adds.He considers Oseille, the fine-dining-style restaurant upstairs also overseen by Thomas Troisgros, one of the best new addresses on the Rio scene. It combines refined French-based techniques with dishes that are teeming with flavor and personality.
Lilia for Creativity and Courage
Lasai’s chef also praises Lilia, a standout restaurant in the heart of Rio. “It’s an original spot, somewhat off the beaten path, that started small but has since found great success. The food is excellent, the menu well-thought-out, and the dedication required to maintain this level of quality in the city center is truly admirable,” he says.Chef Lucio Vieira took a bold step by investing in a once-neglected part of Rio, now experiencing a revival thanks to cultural projects and new businesses. His restaurant has helped draw locals back to an area rich in history.
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Hero image: A bird's-eye view of lush Rio de Janeiro. (©rparobe/iStock)
