You may be surprised to learn that one of Warsaw’s great-value Bib Gourmand restaurants is none other than a cevichería. But if there is anyone you can trust for restaurant recommendations, it’s the MICHELIN Guide Inspectors, who make it their life’s work to uncover true culinary gems of all shapes and sizes. Two such gems in the Warsaw dining scene share the same founder and chef: Argentina-born Martin Gimenez Castro. Having arrived in Poland 17 years ago, he made his name among local and foreign foodies as the chef of the fine dining restaurant Salto, which was located in the now-closed Rialto boutique hotel. While still working at Salto, he opened his first solo operation, Ceviche Bar, serving, as its name suggests, ceviche and modern dishes inspired by Latin American cuisine.
“Seafood might not be something that you connect with Argentina. But I have always had a dear love for it. My first job in the kitchen was at a seafood restaurant (and I would add, the only proper seafood restaurant) in Mendoza. I was, back then, 17 years old, and funnily enough, after all these years, it is still open!” says Gimenez Castro. After taking his first steps in a professional kitchen in Argentina, he then moved to Naples, Florida, where he literally dived into the world of seafood.
“It was there that I learned how to work with different kinds of fish and crustaceans, and also where I really fell for sea produce. Even though I later worked in restaurants with meat, nothing gave me as much joy as cooking with fish and seafood. Personally, I believe it's more inspiring, creative, but also more demanding. You really need to learn about every single ingredient, its characteristics, to fully present its unique flavour and textures. Though I love a good steak, to me, cooking with fish and seafood is more exciting and rewarding,” he admits. Gimenez Castro recalls that after closing Salto, he was in need of a break from fine dining. “Ceviche Bar was precisely that,” he says.
With a buzzy vibe, a vibrant playlist and fun, original Latin-inspired food, which was a rare find in Warsaw at the time, Ceviche Bar quickly became a hot spot for the city crowds and in-the-know foodies alike. The signature dish here is, of course, ceviche, served in a wide variety of styles; choose between tuna, oysters or, if you can't make up your mind, the popular ‘mixto’. Diners are then invited to choose from a lineup of contemporary seafood dishes, packed with vibrant Latin American flavours that transport diners to the streets of Peru, Mexico and Havana, from black tempura langoustines or salmon tacos to shrimp empanadas or grilled octopus and tuna steak in a peppery sauce. Ceviche Bar quickly became and has remained a one-of-a-kind culinary landmark in Warsaw that is a magnet for seafood lovers.
After some years away from fine dining, Gimenez Castro decided to come back with a more refined project: Tuna. “It truly is my project, to the point that I drew the first plans of the restaurant myself,” he says. The tables face the bar and kitchen, which features a glass wall allowing guests to watch the chefs at work. “I wanted to create a restaurant with no borders, where the dining room smoothly transfers into the kitchen and where guests can see all our work,” the chef explains. The restaurant, located in a modern building in the Powiśle neighbourhood, enchants with soft lighting and an intimate atmosphere. Its design mirrors the restaurant’s culinary themes, with the walls adorned with a staggering 18,000 fish tin lids that create a scale-like pattern, transporting us to the underwater world. In a bid to further highlight the quality of the ingredients used at Tuna, one part of the dining room is home to glass fridges holding the catch of the day as well as a filleting station where the chefs showcase their craft.
“Originally, we thought of Tuna as a more casual place, yet serving the best quality produce. The fact it evolved into a more fine-dining venue came naturally, following the needs and openness of our guests.” explains Gimenez Castro. “We moved from an à la carte menu and dishes designed to share to focusing on a tasting menu, just because it was what the guests were asking for. But now I can say that Tuna is now how I had always imagined it to be. We try to constantly surprise our guests with new products. Recently, we brought fresh abalones, and for many, it was the first time they had tried them. We grilled them, then sliced, finished with some beurre noisette and served with bagna cauda. We work with a special delivery app, that allows us to see what producers have available and to be in touch with them directly. That allows us to really pick what we need and be sure about its quality.”
At Tuna, Gimenez Castro takes a playful approach to his seafood produce, pairing it with seasonings and condiments from all over the world, from foie gras to shimeji mushrooms. The best way to start the meal is with a selection of house-made seafood ‘charcuterie’, such as sturgeon rillettes, corvina mortadella or sea bass jerky, accompanied by tangy pickles and comforting bread. If you opt for the chef’s tasting menu, you might taste creations like scallops with yuzu and wasabi; fresh hamachi with tapioka, teriyaki sauce and zingy ginger; sorrentinos (round, filled Argentine pasta) with crab, orange and foie gras; and a choice of tuna with truffled cauliflower for your main course.
"Like all chefs, I always dreamed of being recognised by The MICHELIN Guide. Yet my wife, Marta, was always saying that that's beyond us. Yet, after years of hard work, we were honoured to receive the Bib Gourmand recommendation for our Ceviche Bar. That was a truly special moment for us personally and for me as a chef. Now we have Tuna, and we work equally hard on it. Let's see what the future brings," wonders Gimenez Castro.
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Illustration Image © Ceviche Bar & Tuna
