You will only find happy people here, and the Aegean-blue awning feels as essential to the neighborhood as traffic lights. This beloved Greek spot (with a second location in the East Village) is a lively one where the bustling kitchen is in view. Quick, straightforward servers may address you in Greek if you look the part—that’s just how local it gets here.

Grab a seat on the enclosed patio for some serenity and get things going with garlicky and bubbling-hot crab-stuffed clams; or the cold, classic trio of powerful skordalia, cooling tzatziki and briny taramosalata served with toasted pita triangles. Order a side of horta (steamed escarole and dandelion) to accompany a plate of sweet and delicate mullets, served with a side of lemon potatoes.