Shamim Popal and her family were forced to flee their native Afghanistan when the Soviet Union invaded in the 1980s. They arrived in the United States with very little, and together with her husband, Popal has created a thriving restaurant group in Washington, D.C., with Lutèce, Pascual, and MICHELIN Guide Bib Gourmand Lapis.
Despite running these popular restaurants, when Popal arrived in the U.S., she didn’t even know how to cook rice. After many long-distance calls to her mother and secret cooking lessons from her uncle, she mastered it and also began developing her cooking skills to share her Afghan heritage with her family. She never expected to become a chef—until 2015, when she opened Lapis to showcase modern Afghan cuisine. This year, as the restaurant celebrates ten years and The Popal Group celebrates 22 years, Chef Popal reflects on perseverance, hard work, and what it takes to succeed in the face of challenges.
What inspired you to become a chef?
I never imagined becoming a chef. I was busy raising three kids and juggling a career and a marriage like many women of my generation. But, I always had a love of cooking and spent years perfecting my family's recipes for my children and grandchildren at home. Eventually, they convinced me to take the helm at Lapis a decade ago when we opened the restaurant. So, you can call me the accidental chef!
What were some of the most important lessons you learned along the way?
Never give up or doubt your own ability to overcome challenges. I barely spoke English when I fled Afghanistan with three kids in 1980. My first job in America was at Marshall’s. As a mother of three I decided in my 30s to go back to school, which was hard given my family obligations, but I never gave up. And when we opened our first restaurant 22 years ago in Georgetown, I had to chart a new path again. My past experiences overcoming hardship and uncertainty reminded me that anything was possible.
Have you faced any challenges as a woman in the industry?
Fortunately, the industry has improved for women, but it’s never easy, especially as an immigrant with a foreign accent and a name that is hard to pronounce. But life is full of challenges, and we have to meet them head on.
Who have been your mentors?
My mother, late mother-in-law, and my three sisters have long been my mentors throughout life. When you come from a family of strong women, they are natural allies to help you navigate life.
Do you have any role models?
I always admired Princess Diana for her grace and strength as a woman. I also had the pleasure of meeting Padma Lakshmi when she filmed an episode of her show at Lapis. She’s an inspiring role model. I also deeply admire José Andrés not just for his amazing culinary talent, but for how much he helps those in need. As a former refugee myself, his compassion is deeply moving.
What advice would you give a young woman who aspires to be a chef?
I would encourage them to work in the industry as early as possible to have a clear understanding of what it entails. Doing so would also refine their craft and skills. And, of course, I would encourage them to be courageous and driven because anything worth having in life requires hard work. I would also tell them they should be passionate, creative, and patient, and of course love spending long hours in the kitchen!
What has been your career-defining moment thus far?
When we decided to open Lapis 10 years ago. I had never formally run a kitchen and it was a daunting task, but I realized I had no choice but to ensure its success for my family’s sake. Ten years later, I am filled with pride given how we have managed to share our Afghan culture with the community through food, and how much joy our restaurant brings to all of our guests.
Who or what inspires your food today?
I’m passionate about providing healthy and delicious food that honors our traditions. And seeing our guests enjoy our dishes is truly inspiring. Their appreciation for Lapis is a wonderful gift.
If you weren't a chef, what would your dream career be?
I always dreamt of being a nurse or teacher as a young girl in Afghanistan. But life takes you on unexpected magical journeys, and I’m grateful to share my love of Afghanistan as a chef today with all those who visit Lapis.
Hero image: Kelsey Shoemaker / Chef Shamim Popal
