Built by decades of chefs in California, Cal-Mex has become a distinctly delicious type of cuisine, respecting Mexican traditions while embracing California principles of health and sustainability.
Chef Michael Siegel and Manfred Mendez of Playa, Chef Thomas Ortega of Amor y Tacos, and Shireen Imani of Chulita, are at the forefront of these innovations in the growing cuisine.
In the early days, Mexican cuisine in California was “characterized by comfort foods like enchiladas, burritos, and crispy tacos served on sizzling hot plates covered in molten cheese,” according to Chef Ortega.
As a “chicano” child, he “witnessed [his] grandmother's mastery in preparing homemade Mexican dishes and fresh tortillas on a daily basis.” Chef Siegel saw these same “humble beginnings” with vendors who served empanadas, tacos al pastor, cochinita pibil, and birria.
Over time, Cal-Mex cuisine as we see it today emerged. Training at numerous MICHELIN-Starred restaurants, Ortega focused on creating farm-to-table, organic Cal-Mex cuisine. He explains, “Cal-Mex cuisine showcases premium cuts of meats and seafood paired with organic, heirloom vegetables. These ingredients are complemented by authentic Mexican sauces, such as mole, salsa verde, or rich red chile sauce.”
Imani adds, “Cal-Mex is a fusion of lighter, more modern California cuisine with traditional recipes found throughout Mexico. We take fresh ingredients locally sourced here in California – from organic, hormone-free, and antibiotic-free meats and seafood to plant-based alternatives – to create inspired and elevated dishes that honor the authentic spirit of Mexico.”
One of the most important ingredients in Mexican and Cal-Mex cuisine is tequila. Imani begins, “the role of tequila in Cal-Mex dining is huge and growing exponentially every year. In 2023, tequila surpassed whiskey to become the second most popular spirit in the US.”
Ortega adds, “Without tequila, there would be no margaritas, which are a staple in Mexican cuisine. The acidity and saltiness of margaritas perfectly complement the rich, spicy flavors of Mexican-inspired dishes.” Imani agrees, noting that the sweetness of the agave-based spirit makes it go well with smoky and spicy flavors.
Playa’s Beverage Director Manfred Mendez affirms, “at times, it is the lead feature; other times, it is the supporting ingredient. The symbiotic relationship between tequila and Mexican gastronomy makes it a staple.”
Chulita has a namesake tepache cocktail that is “a little sweet, a little spicy, and very sexy,” and it recently introduced a cocktail with corn in four different forms. Over at Amor y Tacos, Chef Ortega was an early leader in incorporating agua frescas (fruit waters) with tequilas and Mexican candies. At Playa, Mendez emphasizes that it’s all about highlighting the diversity of the regions of Mexico and the balance of ingredients.
When choosing a tequila, Chef Ortega recommends “Reserva de la Familia by José Cuervo as one of the finest tequilas available,” whether that be in margaritas or as a delightful digestif. During private tasting dinners, he pairs Reserva's Extra Añejo with his slow-braised short rib in red mole and tomahawk prime ribeye, emphasizing it as his preferred choice for a “refined sipping experience.”
Mendez agrees, saying, “we have a deep appreciation for the Cuervo family’s tequilas. One of the key highlights on our cocktail menu is the Cuervo Tradicional Blanco, a 100% blue Weber agave tequila. Its crisp, unaged profile makes it a versatile base for a variety of our cocktails including our signature Playa Margarita.”
Blanco is the purest form of tequila. Siegel begins, “blanco and jovan pair quite well with vegetarian and fish dishes, especially ceviches and crudos.” Ortega drinks cristalino and blanco as an aperitif, also pairing them with “lighter dishes such as crudos and ceviches.” Imani adds, “Unaged (blanco) tequilas usually have a bit more heat and bite and can do well with sweet dishes to offset this boldness.”
Reposado and añejo tequila are both aged in oak barrels, which Imani says typically have “subtle umami notes.” Ortega explains, “darker reposados and añejos pair better with heartier meats, roasted vegetables, and richer sauces.” Siegel adds he pairs “añejos with roasted and braised meats,” while both he and Ortega use extra añejos as a “delightful digestif.”
Mendez recommends the “refined Reserva de la Familia Extra Añejo” as a “truly exceptional spirit.” He explains, “its rich complexity, with notes of oak, vanilla, and a velvety mouthfeel, makes it perfect for sipping neat. It also lends itself beautifully to spirit-forward cocktails, such as an Old Fashioned or a Manhattan. A more decadent dish like our Mole Enchiladas pairs exquisitely with the warm spice and subtle citrus notes of an Añejo or Extra Añejo, offering a harmonious balance of flavors.”
Just as important as they are in the bar, the right ingredients in the kitchen are essential. At Playa, Siegel embraces local ingredients and seasonality, highlighting fresh Mexican herbs like hoja santa, papalo, avocado leaf, and smoked dried chiles like pasilla oaxaca and morita. Driven by farmers' markets, Playa offers seasonal hamachi crudo (with canary melon and charred habanero), salsas, and moles. Another standout dish is the conchinita pibil, made with a caja china (a Cuban cooking box covered with charcoal) to mimic the pit roast technique.
Amor y Tacos offers fan-favorites like the hatch chile spaghetti and mole tots (signature mole sauce over crispy tater tots, Oaxacan and Monterey Jack cheeses). At Chulita, Imani uses seasonal produce from Oaxacan farmers to create gluten-free, vegan, vegetarian, and keto recipes – dishes like vegan mushroom carnitas taco and cauliflower al pastor tacos.
To pair with those innovative dishes, each restaurant offers an extensive selection of tequila-based cocktails. At Playa, margaritas are a top seller, and the seasonal star is the watermelon fog (with tequila blanco). At Chulita, crowd favorites include El Pepino (with tequila blanco) and a seasonal margarita (with tequila reposado). At Amor y Tacos, guests can enjoy mango con chile (with tequila blanco) or a house margarita with freshly squeezed lime. Ortega concludes, “I personally find that the refreshing taste of a well-crafted margarita complements any cuisine.”
From Venice to Cerritos to Mill Valley, amazing Cal-Mex food and drinks are never too far away.
Hero image: Dietrich Krous / Playa
