As the first Two MICHELIN Star restaurant in Canada, Sushi Masaki Saito exemplifies Toronto’s blossoming culinary landscape. Growing up in Hokkaido and previously earning Two MICHELIN Stars in New York City, Chef Masaki Saito chose Toronto because of its culinary potential and genuine people.
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“Genuine, humble, loving, kind, honest, sharing, polite and [with] lots of passion.” That’s how Chef Masaki Saito sees Canadian culture. It was Toronto's multiculturalism that first prompted Chef Saito's move. “When I first visited Toronto six years ago, I found Toronto has very good potential," he says. "People in Toronto and Canada in general [are] more willing to accept foreign cultures.”
And so, Saito moved from New York and introduced his famous Edomae sushi experience, which requires precise techniques including slow cooking, marinating, steaming, and grilling. “I am using traditional Edomae techniques but continue to make small changes to make the taste better and better.”
It's hard to think that chef Saito can enhance his Two MICHELIN Star cuisine, but he describes his approach as both an art and a science. “Sushi is subtraction, not addition," he says. "Instead of adding more and more sauces and seasonings, reduce what you don't need and add what you need, in order to bring out the natural goodness of the fish.”
His fresh fish come straight from Japan, including his favorite secret-recipe Monkfish liver. “I must be in constant communication with my fishermen in Japan," says Saito who Facetimes with the Tokyo fish market. "I also need to ‘talk’ to the fish when I receive them. Many inspirations come from talking to the fish and feeling. Each fish is different.” With an education in marine biology, chef Saito says, “I was able to learn more about the characteristics and the details of fish, so I can talk to them to know them more. I can tell just by looking, touching and smelling.”
Saito's reverence for fish started in childhood. “Living in Hokkaido, we had access to many of the best seafood," he says. "I grew up eating the best quality so this definitely shaped my desire for [the] best quality ingredients. When I was 13 years old, there was a sushi place my family would go to often. I realized how food is an important part of memories and happiness. I decided that day I [wanted] to become a sushi chef.”
Taking the lead at Sushi Ginza Onodera in New York City prior to his move, chef Saito earned the restaurant Two MICHELIN Stars. “When I was working in New York, I was first exposed to a city with a diverse culture. I learned how people from all over the world appreciate Japanese sushi.”
This time around, it's his name is on the restaurant. “By owning a store that includes your name, you pay more attention to detail. You can focus on what you really want to do.”
To ensure that precision, chef Saito takes as much care in building his team. “You have to hire people who have the same thoughts, common understanding, and DNA as you," says Saito.
And then, it takes a degree of spiritual training. “Sometimes, working for me is difficult. I demand [a] very high level of passion and dedication from my team," adds Saito. "I constantly convey to my team my mind and philosophy, for better service. Many nights we would finish service by midnight and have staff meal then lecture on our team’s mistakes for hours after.”
That dedication yields a collective vibrancy translating to diners. “We have a special energy here that we promote ‘togetherness’ with our guests," says Saito. "We work extremely hard to strive for perfection in every way regardless of cost and hours of work. I want to see my customers happy and enjoying every night with us.”
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Part of that experience is also rooted in the decor and music. The restaurant’s bar is hand-picked from the forest, “made of a single plank of Hinoki wood from Nara Japan,” typically only reserved for Japanese temples. The music at the restaurant is Saito's mother’s favorite: enchanting and ethereal Ghibli songs.
The location, Toronto's fashionable Yorkville neighborhood, was also deliberate. Saito, a self-proclaimed, fashion-obsessed chef selected the space due to its, "close proximity to the Louis Vuitton flagship store." Saito's second restaurant, MSSM Yorkville, is located a stone's throw from his flagship. “This is my first attempt to make my Edomae style sushi more accessible to more people," explains Saito. "[It] also gives a platform for my student chefs to learn from me at a lower price level.”
Chef Saito’s second restaurant deepens his roots in the city. “I decided Toronto is the best place for my career," says Saito. "I want to help Toronto [become] one of the top-tier culinary cities in the world just like New York, Paris, Tokyo, Hong Kong.”
For him, the Canadian people have been a heartwarming highlight. He says, “I love Canada and Toronto because of the people here. Canadians are very genuine. I love [Canadians] and hope one day [I will become] a Canadian too.”
Hero image: Courtesy of Sushi Masaki Saito
